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Great suggestion, I will be calling around to find a generous brew shop.

I am going to be blending a few batches of lambic that are all currently in 5-6 gallon carboys. I should end up bottling 12-15 gallons depending on my final blend. I have never bottle more than 5 gallons at a time. Other than my kettle I don't have anything large enough to hold that volume. What...

I like to think so 1 bottle of Petrus aged brown and 1 bottle motherfunker. The beer came out great. Fermentation took off within 24 hours and even blew off my carboy.

Thanks, that's what I thought. This was a little impromptu, I wasn't planning on using these dregs to start with. In the past I have successfully fermented a full 5 gallon batch by pitching dregs from 2 bottles, I guess I got lucky.

This was supposed to be a culture from the dregs of a beatification batch 6. It was a basic low gravity wort from DME with the dregs from a single bottle pitched ~6 weeks ago into a 1 quart mason jar. Initially it looked fine, but it has developed a green mold. Will the mold be taken care of...

I have several carboys of wild beer, but none are quite sour enough. I want to experiment with blending them and adding a more sour beer to increase acidity. I don't want to use straight lactic acid. What is the best way to make an extra sour base beer for blending/balancing? Low gravity low...

Recently I have used 60% Pils, 40% Flanked Wheat, mash ~160F and <10IBU. I have pitched either exclusively dregs or WLP655 (lacto, pedio, brett, sacc). We'll see what these recent batches turn up.

Hmm, I think that makes sense. I have been very cautious of exposing my sours to any oxygen to avoid acetobacter. I suppose my caution could be at my own detriment as these things are all a matter of balance. Maybe I will take more samples from my next batches to allow some oxygen in. With...

I have several sours aging in carboys, but I would like to experiment with blending. For this I would like to make a very sour base beer to increase acidity when needed. All of my sours have been mashed at high temp with lots of dextrins but I have not come up with the bracing puckering...

This is a good calculator to factor these things. Boil off is usually calculated at 10%/hour and grain absorption is 0.13 gallons/# grain. No matter, if you collect ~6 gallons and boil down to <5 gallons there is no harm in adding cool bottled spring water to top off when it's done. In fact...

If you do: 1oz Cascade @60' 1oz Willamette @45' 1oz Willamette @10' and add LME and honey at the end of boil and boil your full volume then you will get ~46 IBU which will be appropriate for this beer since you will OG 1.083 and 8.3% Abv., but it will be a fairly simple beer. Other suggestions...

That's interesting, I hand't looked at the BJCP guidelines. JW Lee's is made entirely from Marris Otter. I'm not sure what makes this not an English style Barleywine. The only malt that is not pale is munich which is still rather light and no caramel or dark malts. Is Scottish yeast the right...

Without calculating it out I'm not sure of IBUs, but I am a fan of Willamette hops, I would maybe add 1oz @45'. There is no harm in holding off to add LME until near end of boil and it will give you better hop utilization. Those two changes should get better balance, but I would expect this to...

This looks good to me, it will be a very hefty honey Amber. In fact you may want to hold back on some of the grain as 2 oz of fairly low AA hops may not be enough to balance, not sure what the IBUs would be. Otherwise I would add the honey and LME in the last 5' to maximize the hops, Cascade...

Just looking for any input for my first English Barleywine. I am using mostly extra grain that was lying around. Boiling 180' as the technique from Hair of the Dog. 13# Pils 6# Vienna 3# Munich 1# Sucrose 2oz Target @120' 1oz EKG @120' Mash at 152 for 60', then sparge. Collect ~6...

I sure thought my temp was over 100. I left my pot sealed and put it in my oven with an air temp of 118. I did this all indoors and 1 week later my house still faintly smells of vomit. I didn't stick my temperature probe right in the mash to avoid introducing any extra air.

Reposted in Lambic and Wild brewing forum from All grain forum.

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I recently did a sour mash for a berliner weisse. I used the full mash volume with 7# of grain and 3 gallons water held at 115 degrees for 48 hours. I covered the mash with a layer of foil and plastic wrap over the top. There was a definite sourness and a lot of 'vomit' smell. Unfortunately...

I have been wondering about this same project. I was considering using capsules with active lacto. Anyhow, I did a quick search for saccharomyces unisporus and found this: http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=5145352 Sounds like it will work. Looks good so...