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Some pest is killing my hops. I noticed some of the cones turning brown, so I pulled one apart and this little worm fell out. What's the best way to protect the plants?

I got the regulator from Tejas Smokers. The valves are honeywell SV9501M2528 The output of the burners isn't extreme, but it isn't that bad. They don't seem to heat the water up quite as quickly as my old Bayou SQ14, but they are much quieter and hopefully more efficient. I have no...

I brewed a Saison today and it went pretty smoothly. I think my one burner is running too rich, I might of drilled out the orifice a little too much. The air vent is wide open, but it continues to get these flare ups: Youtube video

I don't think you need a valve at point 3. If it is above the liquid line, then nothing will flow out, but it can still be used as a return. I put a valve right at the output of the pump and one at each lower bulkhead. I also put a return fitting on my boil kettle, so that I can recirculate...

I replaced the valve, that I stripped out. I like this one better anyway.

Here is an older drawing of it. I sized it to accept a 25 or 30 gallon pot. I'm 6'4" tall, so the upper tier is no problem for me, but I could see that being a problem for others.

So I brewed on it yesterday, but it didn't go very smoothly. This was my first attempt at fly sparging and I also attempted a step mash, and it ended up getting stuck. Since it wasn't flowing very well, it was tough to raise the temperature. I ended up around 55% efficiency. Next time, I'm...

Thanks! It took me a long time to understand and plan out the propane manifold. You have a good understanding, I am running low pressure (0.5 psi or 11.5" WC) for the automatic valves. The burners can be run at either high or low pressure with the proper size orifice. Mine came with an...

I finished the mash tun, so I'm ready to test it out and brew a Rye IPA tomorrow.

That was the highest output. I'm using a low pressure (10.5" WC) regulator, and I drilled out the orifice with a #48 drill bit. I'm afraid to drill it out anymore, so I'm going to brew on it like this to see how it goes.

Tested the flame, but it was kinda lame, so I had to drill out the orifice for the low pressure regulator. Then while fixing leaks, I ruined this needle valve. It wasn't meant to be mounted this way, so I'll have to come up with something different. But this part was pretty exciting...

Thank you for the advice! I never really thought about that. I'm getting closer to brewing on it!

I ran the copper gas lines and mounted the pilot lights.

I'm figuring out how to mount the control panel.

I wanted the automatic pilot and these seemed very safe and simple.

I started this about a year ago, but got delayed when my daughter was born. But it is finally picking up speed again and I wanted to share, because I have got tons of inspiration from this forum. I work in a sheetmetal/electrical shop, so I have access to a lot of neat tools.

Can I get? 1x CM-2ROW 1x CM-PALE

Wait and see. People made beer long before they discovered that yeast was a necessary ingredient.

Carbonating in the keg isn't instantaneous. Sure you can shake it and force carbonation in, but it will be far from predictable. If you don't have the fridge space for the whole thing, I think you are better off carbonating in the bottle.

Beverage Factory has them for $57 + shipping. Just order an empty one and bring it to the shop to get filled. The welding shop can't put a really low margin on a product that they aren't moving in large volumes. They probably just carry them more for convenience.