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6 to 8 weeks is a good cold ageing period for Porters.

4 oz of BP is not too much. It is just right for a porter....especially one with those hops in it. Heck I use 4 ozs of BP and 4oz of roasted in my porter.

I like cascade for bittering and fuggles for aroma.

I use 8 oz in my Porters. I like it.

I will propogate it and keep it alive and supply it to forum members if somebody sends me some. I have been thinking about how I can freeze yeast in vials inside larger dry-ice blocks for shipping in the summer months.

Try this out if you really like smooth Porter's. For real Porter lovers, this will lack the roasted kick!, but it is a good session beer and on for converting BMC people over to dark Ales. If you want to make it a robust Porter then just up the black patent to 6 and Roasted Barley to 8...

Steep for 30 mins minimum. It will not hurt at all. I have never seen a receipe with such a weird number (12 mins) for the steep time.

Thanks JNJ.....I have only been brewing for 12 years....I think I know what I am talking about. Thanks for backing me up.:mug:

I would steep at 155 to 160 degrees for 30-60 mins depending on the style. Longer for darker beers. Be careful listening to others. Steeping is not the same thing as mashing and you want to keep your temps between 150 and 160 degrees so that you do not extract Tannins from the grain. If you...

I agree with you, but my point is that I started brewing before the technology of oxygenation existed for the homebrewer. I have spent years adjusting recipies to get them to taste the way I wanted them to based on my techniques. I agree that perfecting oxygen saturation and adjusting the...

I agree with the concerns of overpitching and fast ferments. Heat builds up and unless you are equiped to handle the heat, you should not overpitch. That being said......I doubt that pitching on top of a fresh yeast cake is going to be overkill. If you made a 2 quart starter, then I would...

I do not really like dry beer. I tend to like Porters and stouts and brown ales that have a little residual sweetness. I have brewed some dryer beers and never had a problem with attenuation. I usually always reach my goals within a small margin of error. I can see why someone who can never...

Better is a very individual concept. If your attenuation goes up then your alcohol content goes up and your beer is dryer. That is ok if the style of beer matches the dryness that you get. But if you are not brewing a dry style then you may go too far with your attenuation. MORE is not always...

Correct! But the thread starter appears to be doing the same. I thought my experiences were relative to his.

With an ass washing technique of "Dump and Spash", I would assume that some funk is left behind. Ass wahing needs "scrubbing" to be effective.:D I have no doubt that using pure oxygen to pump up your oxygen content is going to increase attenuation and the speed of fermentation. How much and...

Let's hope your beer tastes better than your ass smells!

I guess you are right. I may be an old timer stuck in my ways, but my recipies are fine tuned to my technique and I really do not want to screw with attenuation and cause me to have to tweak my recipies because my brew turns out too dry. The only thing good that could result from me switching...

I have been brewing for 12 years. I use carbon filtered water for my boil and I also put a few gallons in the freezer until they start to freeze. I use this water to cool the wort and bring it up to 5.5 gallons. I always just put the wort into the carboy, and stretch a balloon over the...

The only time mine get stuck is when the post o-rings need a little lube.

No.....I am saying that when you add yeast to the wort, it reproduces and as it does, it absorbs (pure)water from the wort to build the new cells. The dead cells and trub also act as a sponge absorbing more of the pure water from the wort. The result is that the wort is concentrated because...