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Make up a gallon, fill up a spray bottle from the gallon jug, put the remainder of the gallon under the sink (with the cap on) and use it next time?

It also keeps beer from falling out of the hole at the bottom of the bottling bucket :p

I'd keep testing through the week and bottle on Saturday, but that's just because I got no time to bottle during the week. You're probably good to go.

No, it doesn't. The only way to be sure is to test the SG. As it is, you won't be able to tell the ABV (since you don't have a starting SG), but you can still be certain that fermentation is finished if you take a couple readings. Take a trip to your LHBS and buy 2 hydrometers. That way the...

It seems sufficient right up until the hot break starts spilling over the sides.. :rockin:

Might want to get a siphon tube or auto-siphon, and a paddle, aeration stone/ and pump or wine whip for aerating your wort.

Hmm... good point. I'd run that test myself, having both a 32 quart pot and a high output burner on my gas stove. It's one of the reasons I got the gas stove in the new house... Unfortunately, I can't squeeze the pot between the stove and the hood. :confused: I guess I should have...

Fill it with water and find out. If you can get a rolling boil, it will boil wurt just as well.

Editing because I came off snarkier than I inteded... You have to clean all of your equipment after use. The brush (at least my brush) has metal parts. The potential is there for scratching. Even with plastic bristles, eventually the material gets scratched (you can tell when the plastic...

Better bottles are great for as long as they last. The only problem with them (and the only reason I don't use them) is that (like all plastic) they are impossible to reliably sanitize if they get scratched, and they are a bit more expensive to replace when this happens than an ale pail...

What keeps a big enough pressure change from sucking water up into your beer?

Marbles. Sanitize them first by either boiling or a 5 minute soak in star-san solution.

Also, if you don't want to rig a blow-off tube, the 3-part fermentation locks are much easier to clean if the krausen gets into the lock. The s-bend locks look cooler, but are in fact a pain in the ass to keep clean.

I feel kinda like Tom Hanks in Cast Away, only better, because anyone can make fire... Anyway, I popped the cap on my very first home brew this past Saturday. It was a variation of the beginner recipe on howtobrew.com, but with 3 lb each amber and light DME on the recommendation of the store...

Follow the introductory recipe on http://www.howtobrew.com/ I made this myself a couple weeks ago. It was easy enough for some who had never brewed beer before (but I have done mead) and it is now resting contentedly in a 5 gallon glass carboy after being racked at the two week mark...

No, I had it backwards and then read what I meant instead of what I said the second time. It's what I get for trying to keep up with forums on the boss' time :p

Exactly...

An airlock allows one-way movement of gas from an area of higher pressure to an area of lower pressure. If yours is letting air in, the air pressure outside your fermenter is lower than inside. The sudden temperature drop would account for this, though I would think it would have to be pretty...

If you are looking at propane, you can look at homebrew sites, but any burner that can get a pot of oil to 375 is going to be plenty hot enough to get your wort boiling, even in a 15 gallon batch. Burners marketed as turkey and fish fryers generally cost less than those at homebrew stores, and...

I have used sealed foil packets of dry yeast that has been at room temperature for 3 months with no problem at all when making mead... I'm not recommending that you store your yeast on top of the refrigerator, or anything, and regardless of how it is stored you should rehydrate and proof your...