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Thanks Fletch and Ohio-Ed, its working beautifully now! After counting the Turbodog bottles in the sink, its a wonder I got it working. Anyway, black to both sides of the NO switch, one jumper from pump side black to light terminal, and the whites to the other light terminal was the correct...

Doh! Sorry. Thanks for chiming in Ed, I think you have given me a moment of clarity. I took the "block attached" to mean the black one built on to the switch, rather than "attached" to the back like you meant. You are correct, when the pump is connected to the NO switch, the switch and...

That is one of the configurations I already tried. I did it again though to make sure. Here are pics: http://a0001718.blogspot.com/2010/03/blog-post_3646.html Button unpushed, light is on, pump is off. Then when I push the button, pump goes on, light goes off. Instead of light off...

Here is three more pictures with the brown NO switch attached to the black part: http://a0001718.blogspot.com/2010/03/blog-post_19.html

A picture is worth 1000 words, so I took some pictures so you can see what I am talking about. You can click on them to see hi-res images. http://a0001718.blogspot.com/2010/03/blog-post.html

The ones on the black part are not labeled with electrical notations, the only say 1 and 2 on one side and 3 and 4 on the other, to indicate where to attach the optional additional contact blocks if you needed to. And then there is an X1 and an X2 on there as well.

Ohmmeter shows nothing across terminals ont he black part. The terminals are not labeled. The terminals on the brown NO switch part are labeled "3" and "4", and then it shows the conventional "N.O." diagram.

I think that is part of my problem here, the black "switch" on the button itself, seemingly is not a switch at all, and only powers the light. Their PDF from the link in my last post says: "These switches are supplied with a special N.O. contact block designed for use with this actuator"...

I can say with 100% certainty that this is not the case with the switch I have. The black part that is attached to the button itself, is only for the light. Attaching the black wires to either side of it only result in the light being on, whether the button is pushed or not. Then, the NO switch...

Still no worky. If there is only one wire in each contact block, then nothing can ever happen because it seems that the two blocks are not really connected from an electricity standpoint. The brown NO block connects and screws onto the black one that is built on to the button, but the only thing...

It is the brown NO contact block. I will try the plug end on C and pump end on NO and see what happens, then flip it 180 if it still doesn't work.

I think I sort of know what you mean, but lets break it down to simple colors from the wires. I am using the switch bewteen a power cord and the March 809. Each side has 3 wires, a black, a white, and a green. Currently I have the two greens capped off together, the two whites capped off...

I have a GCX3194-120L blue LED push button from AutomationDirect, like this: For the life of me, I cannot get the darn thing wired correctly to have the light on when the pump is on. It seems that I can only get it to either be with the light on and then when I push the button the light...

Thanks for the assist fellas. I orderd an enclosure and a blue LED On/Off button from AutomationDirect, should be keen.

Wow, I cannot imagine how I missed that, considering it says momentary on every single switch description. I think my brain was just imagining how cool it would look on the side of my rig. Anyway, I was thinking it would be nifty to have a somewhat waterproof industrial type switch mounted on...

Anyone ever used one of these Corrosion-Resistant Washdown Enclosure-Mounted Switches for their March 809? http://www.mcmaster.com/#7546k21 Does anyone think it would be a good idea?