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Looks good @shoengine - don't worry about testing it starting with a full hopping for my sake (don't want it getting busted just for my curiosity). I've found a cheap 24v (or 12v) DC gear motor (although less total rated power than your motor) - total cost including motor bracket power supply...

@shoengine nice build! I have been wondering about the geared DC motors for a while but not brave enough to jump into it. From the motor manufacturer the rated torque of that 24vdc 150rpm motor is around 6kg.fcm (approx. 5.5 in pounds), however a lot of sources discussing motorising mills with...

Might be a loose connector in the temperature probes panel mount socket. Don't know if they are screwed terminals or soldered. The slight resistance change of this joint when it moves about could cause the temperature to jump about. Reason for thinking this socket/connection could be the source...

Wall thickness of sanitary tube is normally 1/16" so the 1.5" tee will have an ID of 1.375". The only issue with mismatching IDs like this is depending on how it is arranged (most issues are with horizontal piping) is the larger tube may not completely drain, or air can get trapped in the top...

A frog goes into a bank and approaches the teller. He can see from her nameplate that her name is Patricia Whack. "Miss Whack, I'd like to get a $10,000 loan to take a holiday." Patty looks at the frog in disbelief and asks his name. The frog says his name is Kermit Jagger, and his dad is Mick...

Where I am from GFCI only used to be required in "wet areas", e.g. bathrooms (although now are required for any new sub circuits). This was due to the increase likelyhood of water being present, which is one on the main reasons a GFCI is recommended by most on here when electric brewing. While...

Yeah looking at the Auber manual too (which from my past experiences the Sestos's were near identical copies) there is no "Factory Reset". A post on a electronics forum (using it for reflow soldering) also confirmed that its a manual process for the Aubers too.

I would like to but the neck is bent so I need to cut it out (it's one of the reasons the keg was decommissioned and sold).

Yeah the other thing I want to build is a Keg CIP cart so mostly will be using chemical cleaning by the time I have the fermenter done. Just wanted the option to get in there with my arm to get at any stubborn gunk if it need to.

I can normally get my arm in... but then it gets stuck like one of those Chinese finger traps!

I've got a couple of decommissioned kegs (bent chimes/handles and bent spear neck) that I am keen to turn one into a fermenter with just a simple larger TC replacing the existing spear neck (since is it busted and on the piss anyway). Looking at TCs there is a huge price jump from a 4" to a 6"...

Maybe that was actually a W for wonderful!

If you isolate the leak to this section the other point where it may be leaking in past the cylinder valve stem. Some valves are backseating and require the valve to be opened fully to seal (hand snug but don't overtighten it). Check the valve stem with your soapy water when you test this section.

And the warmer it is the more vigorous the fermentation... which can sometimes lead to big temperature increases and big messes!

Do you have any valves on your fermenter? And if you do what sort are they? If you have ball valves you need to flush these during your cleaning to clear out any beer, etc. that can get trapped in the cavity. Usually this includes opening and closing the valve will cleaner is flowing through...

They are measuring the actual light absorbtion using instruments in a lab to determine the SRM From the link "SRM is calculated in laboratories using specialized equipment by passing light through a small sample of beer and recording the drop in intensity due to absorption." But practically...

Thanks all you guys for the advice - eased my worry about the little bit of water left sloshing in the bottom of my plate chiller. Going to stay on top of immediately flushing / cleaning after brewing this time round, and not letting any wort the time to settle in and not want to leave.

I'm using a plate chiller - after getting it nice a clean I can see that a little bit of water is "trapped" in the plates below the invert of the lower ports. I guess the design means it is very difficult to drain this last bit because if you tip it over horizontal this little bit of water then...

So I am getting back into homebrewing, starting off with cleaning all my old gear. Been cleaning my plate chiller and after a fair few hours of hot caustic flush and rinsing it is now coming out clear with no fleks of crud. However after I drain out the water and then give it a shake it sounds...

Sampling the Locked-Down Porter this weekend - not too bad, definitely drinkable (need to clean my beer mugs too!) Also giving the old plate chiller a nice long hot caustic soak - going to be pumping 2% caustic through it for an hour then switch it over to pump the other way for another hour...