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Joe - I'll take them !!!

Is this faucet still available.

I need a Ventmatic faucet, preferably in excellent condition. Will consider more than one if available. Thanks GL63

I brewed two batches of beer with water that had a minimal amount of iron in it and it gave the beers I made (Weizenbock & Belgian Dubbel) a very funky off-flavor. Admittedly, the funk went away after about 6 months, but again, the iron in my water was minimal, and did not look anything like...

Guess I did it wrong then - I put my FWH addition in my mash just prior to sparging when I made my RYE PA 7 weeks ago. It definitely did NOT impact the beer - it is kick-ass !!!

5-6 hours from start to finish.

Thanks for the feedback guys .... why would that amount of flaked oats and barley result in a higher FG? - GL63

Mash temp was 154 and the yeast had an expiration date of 03/2011 - GL63

Any thoughts as to why my stout finished with such a high FG? I've made this recipe several times and never experienced this before - S-04 has always given me excellent results. Fermentation temps were in the 65-68 degree range. Made it on 09/04 and kegged it today - 09/19. Here is my...

I'm just finishing up the boil of a batch of pumpkin ale - I used 4.5 pounds of pumpkin, 1 pound of rice hulls, and a double bazooka in the bottom of my 10 gallon rubbermaid mash tun. No issues at all with sparging - I think the key is to have a thin mash ..... - GL63 PS - I more or less...

I primary for 3 months - after this amount of time, most ciders will be pretty clear. I then rack off the lees and bulk-age for TWO YEARS before kegging. Most people drink their ciders way too early IMHO. I also like my ciders oaked, and add a 1/2 ounce per gallon of cider of American heavy...

These are the first Apfelwein and traditional ciders that I've made using oak. I typically bulk-age my ciders for 2 years before kegging ..... is that long enough to mellow out the tannins? - GL63

I did .... but I can't provide you with a sensory analysis as it is still oaking. I actually have an Apfelwein, and a traditional hard cider on oak. - GL63

I keep a pair of 15' hoses in my house and don't take them out until I'm ready to chill the wort. My outside faucets get shut off from inside my house and I need to turn them back on (obviously) again, when I'm ready to chill the wort. No frozen hose issues here! - GL63

I carb / condtion my stouts for 2 weeks at 10 psi using CO2. After 2 weeks, I hook up my beergas line @ 30 psi and start dispensing through my stout faucet. In my opinion, a stout is best served through a dedicated faucet with beergas - at least that's the way I prefer them! YMMV - GL63

Well ...... I'm the farthest from an expert on the subject, but I typically: 1) Pre-heat my mash tun (converted 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler) 2) Add my crushed grain (AFTER draining out the water I pre-heated it with) 3) Add my water, using a mash rake to stir it up (average 12 quarts...

No brewing today, but I brewed Ed's Hause Pale Ale yesterday .... and I brewed an Irish Red Ale Wednesday ...... and a Blonde Ale, and Honey Porter last weekend ..... and a Honey Weizen and Cream Ale the weekend before :ban: Next weekend I'll be brewing a Christmas Braggot .... for Christmas...

Although I have 6 kegs in my kegerator, I have 4 taps and to be honest, 4 is a good compromise. The two kegs that are not tapped are kept on CO2 and are properly carbed and conditioned. They are ready to 'plug-in' as soon as the last pint is poured from one of the 4 that is tapped. It's...

Everytime I read one of these threads I find that people are going to recommend whichever particular mill they own. Compare the mills to each other and make your selection based on that. Personally, I have the standard non-adjustable JSP Maltmill and am extremely pleased with it. - GL63

I've brewed 4 batches in the past 9 days, but I've also gone months without brewing any. If I look at my brew log and average it out, I brew between 1 and 2 batches per month - on average. - GL63