Search results

Lol, thanks champ. This post was 9 years ago, it was just a failed SSR. Put in a new one, put some cooling on it to stop it from cooking itself, and it’s been fine for 9 years now.

Hate to dredge up a dead post, but did anything ever come from this? Anyone brew it? Thoughts?

I'm using loose pellets, and the difference is definitely noticeable. The extended whirlpool after flameout also helps to collect the hops in the center.

DMS precursors should be long gone by the end of a 60 minute boil, (90 min if you are using pilsner malt!), so no worries there. I'd forgotten about this thread up until I saw it revived today. Just want to say, I've been doing 10-30 min recircs after flameout before chilling since I first...

Well put :mug;

You can see how it works right at the end. Look at the base of the handle here. The lever flicks a little hammer thing in the handle that smacks the bottom of the glass.

Why not just try it, and see if it leaks? I made all my bulkheads from random crap I bought at Lowes, (not to pull away from Wayne at BF - he's got good stuff, and it probably would have been cheaper in the end to go with him). Sometimes took a bit of trial and error, no two are a like, but...

Some of mine have bubbles in them too. I haven't worried much about it. Come to think of it, I DID have one carboy with a small air bubble in it spontaneously shatter on me. What a mess. I threw it about 4 feet through the air and it landed on a concrete floor, then spontaneously shattered!

And to add to others, tune the PID on the element that you most care about accurate temp control on. Typically this means you autotune it on the HLT, since that's where exact temps matter. It might run a bit rampant with the BK, but who cares, typically you are in manual mode and cranking...

The Midwest one looks to be the same as my "GE" one I bought a few months ago....at least from the website pictures. GFCI is GFCI. As long as it's rated for at least the amperage you're using, (usually 30A for dryer outlets....we use 50A because they are cheap and available), it'll be fine.

Hrm - you should have gotten an SSR PID, not a relay PID, but you can make it work still. You'll need a 3-32 volt DC source, (a wall-wort for charging a cellphone or the like will work fine), to give power to the SSR through the contactor relay in the PID. (The difference is an SSR PID...

Compressions work OK, but I find they release too easily after a little while, and can leak after repeated tightening/loosenings. I much prefer unions. A bit more expensive, (~$7 vs ~$2), but they give a solid connection the first time or the five hundredth time. Something like this allows a...

Man, good on you for repurposing stuff you found, but the inverted-color "2" and the oversized "5" would drive me batsh!t insane. :mug:

Seriously bad a$$. That tap handle would look pretty dumb on my kegerator, but on yours it's frickin' poetry.

Amen. I just bought one from Amazon yesterday, should arrive tomorrow. $38 shipped! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJOOI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 The 50 pound one is 13 gallons. They are FDA approved. Searching on HBT turns up others who have used these.

Mine ran pretty hot too, enough that it killed an SSR. I mounted a fan to blow across the heatsink....now the heatsink is cool....even when running a 5500 watt element.

The 2352 from auber has a 2 second cycle time minimum. At boil, with 11 gallons, I'm typically at 60-70% on, so 1.2-1.4 seconds on, 0.8 to 0.6 seconds off. When the kettle has just started to boil, there is perceptible pulsing in the boil, (harder, than softer, than harder), that lines up with...

Each element will be pulling 1500W/120V = 12.5 amps. Standard household wiring handles 15-20 amps, depending on the wiring, so you need two separate circuits. You'd need to find two outlets in your house that run off of different circuit breakers, (not too tough). Then you run a cord from...

Water has a specific heat of 4.18 J/gK. 160F is 71C. Assuming a starting temp of 45F, or 7C, and 4 gallons is 15142 mL of water, and water weighs 1 g / mL, that's 4.18 * (71-7) * 15142 = 4051000 Joules. A watt is a joule/second, so 4051000 joules is 4051000 watt*seconds. Assuming you have a...

NPT means tapered threads....the threads get narrower as you go farther in. NPSM (straight pipe threads) have no taper, same width the whole way. This means that NPSM will only thread a bit into NPT threads, until the NPT threads taper too small to allow the NPSM to go further. Most of us...