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Since the beer is already in there, I don't see a reason to reason to expose it to oxygen again by transferring it. As long as it doesn't become over carbonated and the glass can take the pressure it's not a bad idea in your situation. Drinking it first is a good idea too. Situations like that...

I wouldn't age it in a bucket. I've aged numerous sour beers in Better Bottles and never had an issue with oxidation. Mike at themadfermtationist.com & OldSock on here uses Better Bottles and he's well known for his aged/sour beers.

Yeah, I ferment at 63 or 62 for most ale yeasts. Getting temperatures down from room temp (67-68) to mid-low 60's was the biggest improvement I made when starting out. Optimum temperature for yeast health is often 70 or so, but unless you're fermenting in a tall 100bbl conical under pressure I...

No, I pitched Orval dregs (2 bottles) into a secondary after an initial 3 week fermentation. Secondary was a Better Bottle, and let it sit like that for a year before bottling.

I brewed a Matilda clone that was off a little on the malt bill, but nailed everything else. I pitched the yeast and let it go for 3 weeks and then moved to a better bottle and pitched Orval dregs. A year later it was perfect.

You don't need a pressure cooker, but it cuts the boiling time from an hour to 10-15 minutes. I got mine second hand for next to nothing. Also if you're canning in the heat of the summer, boil everything outside on a banjo burner so you don't have to steam up the house. I learned that the hard...

Yeah, 72 hours from activity is probably fine; a week gives you more security. How much higher is the non-controlled area? You would probably be OK, but I wouldn't go over 70F, even after a week.

I've done that to heat up a fermentor (bucket), but not bottles. It works great for a bucket. I like this heater too, but you need a temperature controller Wort-O-Matic: Fermentation Can Heater

Great! If they bitter at 30 minutes, that makes me think they do a significant whirlpool. I'd guess 30 minutes or so, which is common on a commercial system. I still think they dry hop it based on my attempt, but I'm really curious on how this recipe turns out. The simplest recipes can be the...

Here's a link to a thread that discusses that recipe, including a breakdown of it from Stone. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/stone-xi-anniversary-clone-51521/

Put it on the warmest setting and check it, but I would still think that would be significantly below 32F. I wouldn't risk pulling a keg out every couple hours - what about sleeping? The beer in the lines will freeze faster than the keg too. I remember waiting for this or that being a PITA when...

Soak them all together for 30-60 minutes. In all grain brewing all the grain goes into the mash together.

64F is a good fermentation temperature to shoot for. Fermentation temperatures from 62-64F is my goal for a clean tasting ale. If you want to play up phenols you can push it up to 68 or so, but be wary of that with certain yeast strains/beer styles. When I started brewing I found consistent...

Your process sounds good, but just fair warning it's better to harvest yeast from one of Bell's lower ABV beers that use their house strain, rather than Two Hearted. The higher the ABV of the beer, the more strain on the yeast, plus extra hops in 2HA compared to say their Amber. That being said...

1. A bubble a second is a good rate, but be wary of judging gravity/doneness by bubbles. Sure it shows you activity now, but later in the process it's not a good way to determine if it has fermented out completely. 2. Give it 6 weeks at 64F-70F to be sure. It will probably be done sooner, but it...

I wouldn't go wild and get a pump and everything right away. Learn the AG process and get your system dialed in first. My set up is similar to Homercidal's, except I use a 15g kettle instead of a keg. I lift my mash tun up on a stool and gravity feed through high temp tubing into the kettle. I...

I preheat my mashtun with my strike water and then add my grains after about 10 minutes. You can pour in the grains somewhat slowly while stirring or just dump the whole thing in and let it settle and absorb water for about 5 minutes and then stir. Both techniques work well for me and I don't...

I would cold condition/crash ales at 32-34. I know a lot of breweries use 32F to cold crash.

I just saw your question about how much Biscuit Malt to use. I would try 8oz. That wasn't enough when I used 2 Row as my base malt, but I think would be a good start if you're going to use Pale Malt/Extract.

My version turned out great, but wasn't cloned. I was the most off on it needing more biscuit flavor and aroma. I think using Pale Malt instead of 2 Row would help, but I'd steep some biscuit too. I didn't dry hop since I was concerned about not masking the malt and kettle hops to try to see if...