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I love the doors as well and I've felt they've always been one of those under appreciated bands.

Have you checked the temperature of your grains. Beersmith has the Strike/Infusion Temp Tool. You can make adjustments to your strike water temp based on the temperature of your grain. Maybe your grain is cooler then normal. This will allow you to make adjustments. When I do my mash in, I add...

Hi and Welcome!! I would suggest looking around your area to see if you have a local homebrew shop. If your still having trouble, there is a great online supplier here in Ontario. Try looking here http://www.homebrew-supplies.ca Hopefully that will give you a start.

I know for me, I do the starter usually 2 days before I brew. I never do it ahead then refridgerate. Again, it's a personal choice. I usually pour everything into the beer. Yeast and all, because there is still a lot of yeast in suspension. So I want them too. If your starter gets to a point...

I did the same as you a few days ago. I did mine Thursday afternoon for my brew on Friday. I went for 24 hours and all I got was aittle action. Just streams of bubbles up the side. I pitched it in my wort and about 16 hours later it was going nuts!! So you might be having some lag.

Here's a little something from John Palmer's "How to Brew" For general cleaning, mild detergents or percarbonate-based cleaners are best for steel and aluminum. Bleach should be avoided because the high pH of a bleach solution can cause corrosion of aluminum and to a lessor degree of...

What was wrong with the false bottom? I have a false bottom on the bottom of my cooler MLT and prefer it to the braid I use to have. Can you cut the braid shorter.

I second this one. I have the same setup that I bought at a homebrew supply. It came with a disposable oxygen tank regulator, sterile inline filter, a .5 micron stainless steel oxygenation stone and tubing. Just needed to buy a disposable oxygen tank at my local hardware store. I just...

Don't give up on doing the whole "Keggle" thing. Have you tried approaching a local craft brewery for kegs. I did that and the owner sold me 2 old kegs (15 Gallons each) for $50 each. The weldless stainless valve kit from Bargain Fittings was $25. Now I also had to spend $15 on a step drill bit...

Mine was a $10 Walmart special. I bought 2, one for my HLT and one for my MLT. Oddly enough these ones came with what seems like a silicon coating already on the wire! They are both accurate. The one on the MLT kept falling off and hitting the ground several times the first time I used them...

RCCOLA has the answers. Don't get overly worried about the yeast starter. I put off using starters for years because I was so worried about getting the yeast contaminated. When I finally did make a starter it was one of those "Geez that was easy" moments. Just remember proper sanitation and look...

My Brew Stand. Made from wood with heavy caster wheels to making moving easy. 2 propane burners, each with it's own propane tank. March pump folds out from under shelf.

My Brew Stand. Stainless paddle with holder on the side.

My Mashtun. A converted 5 Gallon cooler. With digital thermometer, mounted using a silicone stopper. All stainless valve and interior false bottom. Manifold built into lid for easy sparging.

My Mashtun. Manifold built into lid for easy sparging.

My Mashtun. All stainless valve and interior false bottom.

My HLT. Made from a converted keg. Has sight glass, all stainless valve and a digital thermometer mounted using a silicone stopper.

My grain mill. Hopper made from plywood.

My fermenter using a converted Corny keg.

I'm with babalu on this one. I use the activator packs and always make a starter. It's better to have more yeast cells then not enough. As for the 10 minutes at 170 degrees. The higher temp water is meant to stop enzyme activity and the converting of starch to sugar. I usually just sparge...