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Sorry for the late reply. I use an anvil foundry, 120V

After reading a few threads about low ABV beers I decided to take a bash at it. I was not sure regarding the process, there are 2 ways: cold vs hot mash. I tried both and I thought some people might find the results interesting. My goal was to compare the 2 processes from a practical standpoint...

As a beginner it is easier to start with kits. Some home brew shops make their own. When I started I never had a bad batch with them and it was a great introduction. They were all LME/DME + steeping grains + yeast.

As long as the pressure does not present any safety risk I would leave everything in place. If the spunding valve gets clogged though I assume that the pressure might become an issue for your safety. That being said the max pressure for your keg is most likely 60psi which would leave you with...

By the way, you probably know that but just in case: if you already have beer coming out the spunding valve, do not relieve pressure or you will have a pretty good cleanup to do. The gas dissolved would leave the beer and create bubbles. I've been there, I had 1/3 of my fermenter as headspace...

They are available in Canada: https://brewhq.ca/products/duotight-ball-lock-disconnect-black-liquid-8mm

In case someone is interested, after doing some research, a cooler is way too weak to be used as a glycol chiller…

I’ve been looking at a few options to get a glycol chiller that would not be completely overkill and over my budget. A small chest freezer would do the trick but it’s pretty bulky for something that I would need just a couple of weeks every month. Recently, I’ve discovered mobile electric...

Sounds like the perfect solution, they are suprisingly affordable when you compare it with flow control ball lock + duo tight fitting. I would be curious to see the flow at a low pressure like 5psi or so.

I made a dubbel recently with WLP 3787, the Westmalle strain, same as WLP 530. It went from 1.066 to 1.003, 95% attenuation. It tastes pretty good 😊 This seems to happen quite often with that strain according to what I’ve read.

Could it be because of yeast activity? The fermentation starts, the temperature rises because of the activity. The activity then stops when the fermentation is over causing the temperature to drop. I had a quad fermenting as high as 26 degrees C (79f) while the room temp was only 18c (64.5f).

How do you keep your fermenter under pressure during the transfer? How do you measure the pressure? With the pressure gauge that comes with the unitank?

It sounds like you and I have the exact same setup. The 4mm tubing is pretty good I like it a lot, it stays manageable in the kegerator (5ish ft at 15psi). I'll use some 5mm tubing for stouts though, the 4mm introduces too much resistance for low pressure kegs. The duotight fittings are super...

I just tried to change the o-ring, interestingly the one provided with the flow control QD is chunkier than a normal one. It could make sense that changing it fixes the flow issue but no luck on my end.

Today, I made a couple of experiments with tubing this time and same result. No flow when set at the minimum and a painfully slow flow of foam when set at the maximum. No issue with a regular QD though. I took it apart and cleaned it, I noticed a fair amount of vegetal matter coming from the...

Hi there! I recently started to keg, when I bought the equipment I figured it would be easier to have a quick disconnect with flow control (Product link) than having 10,000 ft of tubing in the kegerator. I wanted to start with something simple and I made hop water. Then I started to run into...