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Update in case anyone else reads this thread in the future I have suspicion that it was hydrodynamics of the re-circulation as suggested. Last few brews have done much better. I have done a 12% barley wine 10% imperial coffee chocolate oatmeal stout and an 8% 'imperial' loquat wheat All of...

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Amazingly clean rig, I love it. I have to store mine between brews, so no where near as nice. Embarrassingly, this is the best photo I have on the phone.

I have a ball valve before the pump. Not after the pump. I dont like limiting flow before the pump, so I haven't used it much Perhaps another to add to the rig. That would assist in keeping the prime

It will probably be 2 weeks before my next run, but I made a diffuser for the hot wort returning to the mash tun. In theory, will give more even flow across the surface and some back pressure to slow the system down. $4 copper water hammer pipe $2 1/2 inch NPT fitting Welded Screwed into the...

I believe husky/grainy beers often blamed on sparging. Too much proteins and junk making their way from the mash to the pot. Often with a clear wheat beer you can see a miasma hovering in the bottle half of the beer. Usually cold conditioning for 2 months will cause the nasty stuff to layer...

Whatever formulation you get, I would mix into a growler for a week and do a blind taste test with + without Ellagic acid. At the end of the day, all that matters is the taste. So 1st thing to check is does it impart any 'flavors'

I compost But in the past have dried and mixed with honey and nuts for granola bars Also works great as hog feed

I am going to build a sprinkler system for more even flow and should decrease flow a bit. If it works I'll post a few photos.

I have have not tried iodine, but it's cheap and worth a try I keep the thermometer controller near the hot mash in... to prevent over heating, but enzyme inactivation is a concern of mine

I have become a bit obsessive with gravity. So at the end of each step I use a hydrometer in a 250 ML cylinder. I spot check occasionally with a refractometer And I have a Tilt 2 in the fermemter All of the measurements are typically +/0 0.003

The chapman tun is amazing at holding on to heat. I usually put grains in 1st. Usually do a 10 min acid rest. The heat until the sac rest. But would be happy to try pre-heating first

To get the required volume in the boil, for anything over ~16 lbs grain I need todo a mash, run off / wash, then a final sparge. So after the primary mash, I drain everything out, fill up and get the temperature back up for a another sac rest. Then the final sparge For < 15 lbs, I do the...

I think I agree with you that BIAB might be 'just as good' if not better By 'wash,' I believe runoff would be the proper terminology. I have brewed in both worlds, so forgive me if I mix and match terminology. With 20+ lbs of grains, a 10 gal mash tun typically requires a mash, run off, then a...

I add water Wait about 5 minutes then restart the RIMs and re-circulation. It typically takes about 10 minutes to get back to temp and I leave it there 10-15 minutes. So 20-30 minutes from water addition to drain

Have tried both Batch seems to give better results

I was considering a chandelier of some sort. I think it is a good idea

Nope, wish I did

Thanks I can try slowing it down on next run. Definitely worth a try

Last year, I "upgraded" my mash tun from a basic cooler to a Chapman 10 Gallon mash tun and since then I get less than 50% efficiency. I have been all-grain brewing since the 1990s, but I cannot figure out why the efficiency frankly sucks. I have done about 10 brews with stirring more/less...