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If you are going to try and rebrew this beer repeatedly you have a great shot at doing a forced fermentation test. Save a pint if the wort and put it in a 2 liter flask or a quart mason jar. Sanitized of course. Then pitch a whopping amount of yeast in there. Like a half packet of US05. Shake...

I think it's a nice idea but how can you gaurantee the results of the sample are the same as when the sample was fresh? The time in transit will certainly effect viability of the slurry.

Does bottled beer go flat as it rides in the truck to the store? As long as the kegs are sealed the CO2 isn't going any where the beer will stay carbonated. You might plan to let the kegs sit for 30-60 minutes before you start pouring to help with foaming issues.

I don't know too many fly brewers around me that mashout necessarily. They sparge with 170F water, and after they collect ~2gallons of wort they fire the kettle to slowly get the boil started. Seems to "lock-in" their mash profile pretty well. In fact I have a couple friends that manage to...

With fly sparging you would be removing water at the same rate you are adding it so I don't see the problem with overflow as long as you keep an eye on it. You could even draw wort out before you start the sparge flow to give you a little more space if you really are worried about overflow...

Adding sugar will not rouse the yeast. Rousing is the physical process of get yeast back into suspension. Adding sugar generally doesn't change the flavor. Unless the yeast is totally pooped out, then adding sugar will make it sweet.

I love using beersmith. But I've never bothered with its offerings post the mash in. I batch sparge and collect my first runnings subtract it from the total I want and off I go. Software is great but sometimes we need to remember whose the brewer, Beersmith or you?

Ester profile created by under pitching the dry packet added to the slightly higher FG likely explains the perceived difference in sweet malt profile. I'd be interested to hear how the next split batch experiment works out.

Fly and batch sparging ARE nearly equal in efficiency. I think there are plenty of batch spargers out there demonstrating just that in their #'s. Efficiency gain is not attributable to drainage. Thats not what I am saying. Efficiency loss in a batch sparge set up IS entirely dependent on...

In most cases the two methods are the same with respect to efficiency. The factor that creates any difference relates to the deadspace in the tun. Primarily how the wort is drained when use a pick up tube set-up, like in a round beverage cooler where the bottom of the tun is below the drain...

36 hours and only 400ml likely finished while you were sleeping. And with a stir plate you won't get a krausen. You need to get used to the change in color. But 400ml with a whole wlp vial probably won't change much in cell count hence color either.

I wonder if the boil in water alone is releasing a small but higher than normal amount of poly phenols from the hops. Thus contributing to perceived bitterness vs. true IBUs. Not saying its good or bad either way, FYI. The thing about this hobby that is always great is the wide range of...

Temp control before anything else, IMO. If there is money leftover then yeast management with equip for yeast starters. These two items have the biggest impact on quality in the end. If you want more gadgets for process enjoyment prone burners and kettles and chillers and all grain is next...

It might move some. I've just never been a big fan of using beano as its difficult to control. But the yeast is already pretty stressed out. Getting it to spring back to life might be tough. Pitching on some yeast cake might help as suggested, but as the alcohol contiues to go up yeast...

You are already at ~72% attentuation. The low end of attenuation for most American Ale yeast strains is 73%. You are done. As evidence by the pitch of extra yeast and beano. FWIW, Champagne yeast won't do any thing in a beer that is already fermented out any way. Champagne yeasts won't...

What about the inside? For a HERMS, aren't you pumping wort through it? Who cares what the outside looks like. Now that the outside is clean I would think it would be hard to gauge how a cleaning solution was working on the tarnish inside.

Just be sure to split the hop amounts between the two pots evenly and it should be fine. It'll be fine even if you don't do it evenly, but you'll have a hard time predicting what the end results will be and how to repeat it if you get a great batch. But doing it differently in each pot will...

I really don't understand how this is not just fly sparging. The only difference seems to be the way the water is being delivered to the top of the bed. How is this any faster than normal fly sparging? The time and efficiency of a fly sparge is equipment dependent and some systems run faster...