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Maybe the original post was actually about the "blow out" (not "blow up") that can happen when you're welding a small sealed container, and the expanding gas on the inside makes it hard for you to finish the welded seam on the outside, as it pushes the puddle apart (hot gas escaping outward)...

Thanks -- this might be easier than I thought. Just have to finish a keg... then I can use the fitting.

OK... I'll try this another way. How is this gas post threaded to a corny keg? I've never taken one apart. http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/plug-assembly-gas-type-a-challenger-v-vi.html

OK... we have photos. No... still no photos....

Hi guys. This isn't a keg question, but it is about CO2 and quick disconnects. I'm sure that some of you guys know exactly what parts I need. I have this tank... http://www.venuti.ca/images/brewing/tank.jpg It's a 6 liter tank that's actually for whipped cream, not beer. And yes, that...

This is a great idea -- I can't believe I've never read about BIAB before... It will used for my next brew. Voile is for curtains, right? Did you get cotton or nylon? Cotton would stretch a little, but synthetic materials would be stronger... and I guess also might rip more easily... I'm...

...and don't throw out the spear, even if you don't know what to use it for just now.

Slight correction: You depressurize the keg by wedging something into the ball valve WHEN THE KEG IS ON ITS SIDE. If you do it while standing above and leaning over, any remaining (stale) beer in that keg will likely end up in your face. ...and yes, I speak from experience.

Clean those stickers off before you solder; cooked-on adhesive can be a bugger to remove.

I thought of that. : )

Ok, got it. Another way to avoid that problem would be to use some squares to hold the metal rod when the concrete is setting up. A "speed" square might be good enough, with some zip ties, or I would recommend the magnetic squares used for welding. Not expensive and very useful. They'll hold...

I might just have to start selling those... :)

I want it for measuring sparge water... A dip stick would be fine. Good idea! Why does it have to be outside your kettle? One of those would be easy to move from kettle to kettle; it could serve the place of 3 sight gauges, right? A piece of stainless steel, weighted at the bottom and...

I think I got it. You used a piece of wood at either end of the tube to center the axle, right? Next time you might try this first... .... and then add the center hole. The nail hole from making the circle on the table saw tells you where your center spot is.

Now that's what I'm talkin' about!!!

A few other thoughts... If I build the frame for the rollers out of plywood, what's a good way to reduce friction where the roller pin goes through the outer box wall? A bit of PVC pipe or copper pipe might do the trick, but I'd love a more professional idea if anyone has one. I'm about to...

Great input, guys. I had thought of using cheesecloth or some rubber with a pattern... the trick would be to glue it (spray adhesive, I suppose) to the inside of the drain pipe. Tricky, but not impossible. I wasn't too worried about getting it off again when the roller comes out of the cast...

I'm not crazy about the idea of having a site gauge made out of glass. My equipment gets bumped around way too much when I'm cleaning. Do people always disconnect these before moving/cleaning the keggles? What about high-temp food-grade clear plastic? Vinyl?? (If it's somehow attached...

I'm in the midst of building a single-tier setup. I was thinking a 23-tip burner would be good for the hot liquor tank, no? Is it the banjo burners that can be adjusted? I'm going to be using natural gas.

I don't get overly concerned about sanitizing / sterilizing, but then again I've never had any problems in 15 or so batches of beer... I generally soak my bottles in a weak bleach solution overnight. Air dry. Sometimes I run them through the dishwasher with the heat dry option to sterilize...