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As GT suggests, there may have been a problem at the maltings although it's unlikely, they have been doing it for years and supply commercial brewers and the type of brewer to use this malt is less likely to tollerate any hazes as the beers are less likely to be filtered. I believe some of the...

I reckon a serious infection is unlikely due to the low ph and alcohol content of the beer. I'd finish up the bottles as soon as possible though, maybe keep one for a year to see what develops.

Marris Otter is a fully modified malt and doesn't need any protein rest. It should have cleared by now, what was the FG, what water did you use ?

Nothing to do with quality standards, the issue was the beer wouldn't clear. An ale that has reached it's predicted FG and bottled will clear of it's own accords. Some say an extended period in the primary is beneficial to allow the yeast to clean up and I subscribe to this theory although it...

It's perfectly acceptable to bottle a beer made with an ale yeast after 7 days as long as fermentation is complete although some may argue that leaving it a little longer in the primary or possibly using a secondary will have taste benefits. Yeast will remain in suspension as long as there are...

You probably wouldn't get an infection if you only cleaned with hot water and detergent but there is an increased risk.

Most standard filters take out rust and scale, possibly chlorine and chloraines, they don't reduce the level of bicarbonates. If your tap water makes your Star San solution cloudy, regardless of ph or foam it is ineffective, you will need to find a water with a low level of bicarbonates. I've...

Muntons kits don't require boiling, just pour the extract into the fermenter, rinse out the tin with some boiling water, top up to with in a few quarts of the intended volume with fresh cold water (if it comes from the tap make sure you have treated it for chlorine and chloramines by adding 1/2...

What type of kit are you using? Muntons and Coopers kits (for eg) have already been boiled and don't require further boiling, boiling can be detrimental to kits like this reducing hop flavour and aroma.

A beer in which autolysis has set in will have a very prominent and distinctive taste of burnt rubber and is completely undrinkable. There is no definitive time period in which it will set in as it depends on the health of the yeast which is another reason to make correct sized yeast...

I've certainly never had a problem with adjuncts when using a false bottom. I have using a manifold though and I can't imagine a braid coping to well at all.

I've never had a stuck sparge using a false bottom, i've had several using a manifold.

You'll probably get better performance from a false bottom in a round cooler. I made a false bottom from an old plastic plate, it works very well.

It's a great yeast, good for malty and dark beers, it's less attenuating than Nottingham, great for milds and brown ales but also good in all English ales. If you're used to using Nottingham but want to move on without the hassel of liquid yeasts, give it a try, it wont dissapoint. The draw...

You're absolutely correct, yeast plays an important part in completing the pallete of many English ales, two simple grain bills with 2 different yeasts will produce two very different beers, it's worth experimenting with English strains when brewing bitters, there's no right or wrong...

Switching to a liquid version of Nottingham wont make any difference, it's the same yeast. I'd go for the Ringwood or WLP023, they make great English Ales. You'll need to rouse the Ringwood yeast daily or even twice daily though.

WLP039 is reputedly the Nottingham strain although imo it's a little too highly attenuating for an authentic HG clone unless you mash hot. The Brakespear yeast is reputedly available as WLP023, Burton Ale, they own the Wychwood brewery (or possibly it's vice verca but I wouldn't be supprised if...

Stainless braids are notorius for blocking, some people manage with them perfectly well, others find them a PITA. It sounds like you might well fall into the second catagory.

Lift the locking collar and gently pry it off putting pressure on opposite sides and next time make sure the black disconnect on the out post and the grey disconnect on the in post;)

I spray the inside of all the bottles using a hand sprayer then empty the drips out just before filling.