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Looks great. I love my California common, but it sure would make a crappy wine.

Just like Walker, I only own this and the Complete Joy. Designing Great Beers is simply the best resource anyone can purchase to help them understand just exactly what each of the ingredients and how you use them affects the beer.

Yeah, I think you forgot decimal points and a few other things. Either that or you are a very clueless commercial brewer. IBU's are a measure of bitterness, to calculate them, you need to know the kind of hops you added, how much of those hops you added, and when in the boil you made each of...

There are no disadvantages. You can acheive the same efficiencies, but obviously it will take some time to figure out how to do that with your system. My first time I got an eff of 67%, after that I haven't dropped below 78%, and one time I had 81%.

It is only an issue when fly sparging, because as mentioned, you do not want to develop channels. You can avoid the entire issue by batch sparging, and achieve the same efficiencies. Do a Google search.

Insulate the top of the mash tun to solve that problem. Also, when batch sparging, an automated stirrer could probably grab a couple more efficiency points for you.

Just FYI, but you're only going to get 5 or 6 holes out of a step bit. A hole saw will go faster (cutting less material), and you will get many more holes out of it (at least 10), not to mention that a hole saw is less than 10 dollars.

I cut the tops of out my kegs with an angle grinder. The first one took 20 minutes, but now I've got my technique down and can get it done in half that. I drilled holes using a bimetal hole saw. I have done 3 holes and show no signs of wear.

I like the Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar. Get a pint bottle!

Apparrently I am a beer snob because when I taste a beer, I talk about the flavors, and because I do not like the same beers one of my friends likes. What a crock of ****.

This is the WINE forum. The BEER forum has a recipe section of its own.

Well, MGD allegedly won't skunk because they use hop extracts instead of hops. Apparently, whatever is getting skunked stays in the hop cone with the creation of a hop extract.

As has been said previously, the name "bitter" is just to distinguish the beer from a mild. The only difference between bitter, special bitter, and extra special bitter, is initial gravity readings. BU:GU's should be the same, etc. They just get more alcoholic the more "special" they get.

Yes, I got it. I think I'll go ahead and throw in an ounce or two of moravian black.

I searched BYO's site but that recipe isn't available online. Would it be too much trouble to find the article and post the grain/hop bill?

So I came up with an idea last night for an American India Brown Ale. Basically, an American brown ale with an OG of 1.070, 70 IBU's (using American hops), and SRM of 30-36. Here is a recipe I tossed together in Promash: ------------------------------------------- American 2-row: 11.5 lbs...

Not really. Hot side aeration is only a worry before the boil, and its effects don't manifest themselves until your beer has been conditioning for 3-4 months.

I just transferred my amber ale into one of those water cooler tanks. They are the same sort of plastic that the Better Bottle products are made from. Yes, it is oxygen permeable, but everyone reports that not enough oxygen passes through the container over the usual 2-3 weeks to make a...

Ok, got a link with an explanation of how those variables affect attenuation? Or a book recommendation?