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I guess I’m a rarity, but I actually drink less since switching to kegging. I usually only have a short pour. Sometimes my kegs seem to keep going, when I think they should have kicked long before. 4 taps, still working on beers from last sept/oct.

Never.

Taste your grain, if it tastes ok, should be ok to brew with. Hops, maybe if they were vacuum sealed, smell them. Yeast, nope, unless it is dry yeast.

My last brew was in early November. I brew outside, and don’t like the cold, so I take the winter off. Maybe this weekend.

I like this line. https://www.morebeer.com/products/ultra-barrier-pvc-free-tubing-316.html

I plan my next 3-4 brews and place an order, always having ingredients on hand for at least one brew. Shipping is free, I have my stuff in 2 days.

IMO, saving a few dollars isn’t worth buying in bulk. Factor in the cost of storage containers and the space that they take up, not worth it to me. Grain is cheep, I’ll let my supplier store it.

Wilser, got over 50 brews with mine and no signs of wear.

Thank you Spike brewing! Been waiting a long time for this. Will be ordering one soon.

Wilser. Got over 40 brews with mine, still looks like new, only a little darker.

I do full volume BIAB mashes in a Spike Brewing 10 gallon kettle. Never had a problem even with some bigger grain bills over 15 lbs. This leaves very little head space in the kettle, which helps hold mash temps better.

9928 + 5 gal Red IPA =9933

^^ what he said. Then once you get the basics down, read, and read some more.

You get what you pay for. I use that ultra barrier antimicrobial tubing and never had an off flavor even after sitting for a while.

By weight is how you tell. The empty weight of your tank is stamped in the neck. They won't empty the tank, they just wont have to put in a full 5 lbs when you fill up. For what a 5 lb fill up costs around here ($12), I'd do it for piece of mind while hosting the party. Then go get a 10 or...

Same here. 20 lb for the keezer, and a 5 lb for kegging, and as a backup. For anything that can run out, I always like to have at least one backup. Other option is to just go get the tank refilled, that way you know you wont run out.

I use this setup, just an old winter jacket, and the mash temps only drop a couple degrees over 60-75 min mash. Having a small head space in your kettle during the mash will help maintain temps.

Even if the yeast was expired, dry yeast will last a long time. What temps were the yeast stored at? What temp was the wort when you pitched the yeast? Did you rehydrate the yeast, if so at what temp? Something happened somewhere along the line that killed your yeast.

Yes, I'd replace all the o-rings. Also, did you use any keg lube? IMO, buying used, cleaning, and replacing all the rubber isn't worth it. Brand new kegs are not that much more.

No matter how you make your wort, weather it be extract, BIAB, traditional mash tun, etc. if you don't have good control of fermentation temps., you are not going to make good beer. Focus on that first. If your basement is 72, your beer is fermenting in the high 70's and that is way too high...