Search results

Vike, thanks!. Great calculator. Now you've got me curious. So, my pureed and pasteurized pineapple, thoroughly stirred into the primary, isn't homogenized"? I figured after primary fermentation I could just take my final gravity reading (1.004 in this case), thoroughly mix in the 1/2 gallon...

Cheers!!! I just made a pineapple IPA for a friend and I didn't take gravity readings before and after pitching 4 lbs (2 whole pineapples), like I should have. I cut them up and puree'd them into my 2ndary. Question: Does anyone know where to find PPG data for using whole fruit? I've seen a...

Excellent break down. All I found on Google, with my flawed search language, was a bunch of engineering sites. Thank you!

Okay kids, Maybe I'm not using the right language in searching Google, but I have a (seemingly) simple math problem I need your help with. I mash in two pots on the stove. One is 16 quarts, one is 20 quarts. I've been doing it by "eyeballing it" with >85% efficiency, but would love to make...

But I use Safale 05 with 98% of my beers, probably over a thousand batches now, and I've never seen cake like that. Do you mean it may be the way Safale 05 is reacting to certain types of rice? I mean they do use rice in pudding lol.

Not sure. Northern Brewer just advertises as "flaked rice".

Yeah, "spot on" isn't appropriate. I was mostly speaking of ABV and just overall being light, compared to my normal beers. Yeah, it had some esters, that made it taste more like a Miller Lite, than bud light. Yes, that's precisely what my yeast cake looked like, but more than a gallon of it is...

Good to be back on! Haven't been on here in years! Just go back into brewing and hitting it hard! Got 5 fermenters going at all times and trying some new recipes. My co-worker challenged me to clone a Budweiser. I said "why not", as I rolled my eyes. So I looked up a bunch of ideas for this and...

No, this method will not win any awards for perfectly cloning a guideline style or give you the "exact" same beer every time. That's why I said in the OP that this may not be for ppl like you. To me that's half the fun. If I made the exact same beer every time it would take out some of the...

Not at all, after it reaches 154-155-160 (whatever), usually achieved in 15 min or so on med/high heat, I simply remove from heat and check it every 15-20min for an hour. Usually never falls below 150 if removed at <160. If 500sq ft apt is 60d I may have to add a little med heat once more for 5...

Good idea! from my method you could also just take the unused 16qt pot after sparging and use it on an extra burner to get a full 6+ gallon boil. NICE! Adds a step, which I don't like, but its easy enough and worth it being able to do a full boil. Try this way next time, thanks, cheers!

Tried the BIAB a few times. Couldn't get the efficiency over 70% in a 20qt pot so bought an extra 16qt pot (listed in my OP equip) for sparging and finally got my 75-85% without a huge pot (which won't work on my stove in 500sq ft apt)

Didn't say I don't know how to "hit the numbers". Used to measure all my water, etc and make the same gravity brew every time... Just don't care to anymore. I know the basics of all the numbers but have to admit I'm rather new to mashing. Only about 15 mashes under my belt so far. Sure, like...

Love brainstorming! This could save maybe... 5-10 minutes or more?? Simplify the process even more?? Add it to my list of minimalist brew ideas. Cheers!

Yes, you're right on... I should have been more specific.. This efficiency is with around 9-10lb grain bill, which I average low 80% efficiency. The few times I've all grained with "big" beers I usually max out around the upper 70% considering using the same method with same amount of sparge...

Anyone want to switch to all grain but live in a no bedroom apartment and don't care to or have the money to have 2 bedrooms full of brew equipment? Also, if your reason to switch to all grain is because you love calculus and must "hit the number" every time, then this post may not be for you...

You obviously missed my point. I didn't say you should always secondary. I said "IF you're going to use a secondary..." ..."Vomit"... I was only using it as a joking visual reference as to what the stuff at the bottom of your fermenter LOOKS like and that you probably don't want to suck...

Thank you for your response. I know that if I naturally carbonate a keg it will take two weeks or more before it is drinkable (aged properly regardless of carbing technique) let alone fully carbed. I'm familiar with all the C02 volume charts and know how to carb the keg at room temp. What I'm...

I have a one keg set up for my 4912 mini fridge and don't plan on buying any additional lines, splitters, etc.(cheap and simple) but I have two kegs I'd like to keep in rotation. Using the above quoted info I know I can use the shaking method on a room temp keg at say 40+psi to make up for...

Racking to a secondary before fermentation is TOTALLY complete is actually a good thing. If you wait until fermentation is TOTALLY complete to transfer you might as well just go ahead and bottle or keg. If you're going to use a secondary you should transfer just before fermentation is complete...