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UK brewers - buy 10mm annealed copper tubing as you can bend it by hand and it doesn't kink.

UK brewers - buy 10mm annealed copper tubing as you can bend it by hand and it doesn't kink.

The first beer was brewed with the help of Jesse Houck and was based on Bitter American, available at the 21st Amendment in San Francisco. This used Apollo hops for bittering and Bravo for flavour, dry hopped with Citra T45 pellets. The second is Redemption Trinity, so called because it uses...

Two commercial UK microbreweries are mashing at 72 and 74 Deg C (161.6 and 165.3 Deg F). Has anybody used temperatures as high as this?

I once brewed 10 gals of lager in my garage, so cold that fermentation took 3 weeks. I went to bottle it using jug and funnel and the jug broke a thin sheet of ice on the top. I bottled it - and it was fine.

The short extract below is lifted from Thornbridge Brewery (UK) website - - thornbridgebrewery.co.uk I mentioned oxygen earlier. This is used initially by the yeast to grow. We add a certain amount of yeast to our wort. Pretty much, the stronger the beer will be, the more yeast we add...

The Braukeiser table only tells you the SG of the first few drops of runnings. Its like going to the pub and choosing between 4 pints of 8% ABV beer or 8 pints of 4% ABV beer. I would be interested to know if diluting the mash affects how much fermentable sugars you can get from the pale malt.

If you have accurate scales, adding 5 gm of brewing sugar to 150 ml of water gives (in my case) 3.0 BRIX. I don't have a hydrometer but those who have could give that reading too.

Yes - no probs at all, but I have an insurance policy, 2 bottles are one litre PET bottles, so I can feel the pressure. Never had to open and degas and reseal for 30 years or more, brew once a week.

thanks folks, I sanitise the brew bucket while the hopped liquor is cooling. I make up my trusty safale 04 starter 90 minutes before estimated pitch time. As it will be a split brew (using 2 boilers) 15 gm of hops into each at 45, 5 and 2 minutes - will weigh as I go - I thought of something...

Set up two 250 watt light bulbs in reflectors and put them 12 inches away from either side of your mash tun. This will stop or minimise heat loss. If it results in a heat gain, so what? you will have at least an hour at 66 deg C then a slow rise to say 78 deg C - perfect, now sparge and get it...

MO and cascade hops is good for me.

Why do you need a cooler at this stage of the process?

The first time I use my refractometer (measures BRIX only) is after hop boiling and cooling to 20 deg C. I then take a reading each subsequent day and plot them on a graph. The readings eventually confirm what I can see with my eyes anyway, that it is time to bottle, typically on day 5 or 6.

I normally do everything on brewday but having time on my hands this afternoon I did everything I could today eg re-cleaning equipment, covering slotted manifold with coarse muslin cloth, covering a 2 lb weight with 2 poly bags to weigh down manifold (it tends to rise up during the mash)...

56 lb of maris otter crushed pale malt is 28 UKP , half a packet of yeast 1 UKP and hops are 4 to 8 UKP per kilo depending on type so max of 13 UKP for a 3.8% pale bitter.

It WAS 165 , he iced it, and got it to "mid 160's". He probably meant mid 150's. So it will be fine. Send me some and I will tell you....

Some of the sludge is in the centre so that will drop into the beer IMHO.

Try fermenting a SMASH beer around 3.8% ABV at 7 C, 12C, 17C, 23C and 29C - do not go any higher, keeping your recipe identical of course. Bottle each brew and taste a bottle every 3 days from day 7 - I will not reveal my preferences so as not to influence the experiment.

When I look at the krausen after 24 hours and see all the dark brown sludge on the virginal white yeast, I think to myself that I don't want it in my beer, so I whip off the bucket lid and remove it with a soup ladle. Two hours later there is more sludge on the white foam so I remove it again...