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BAR gun. BEER gun is a different animal. Don't worry, apparently I can't tell the difference between PRE and POST mix today.

Pre-mix guns are notorious for getting sticky and jamming up. Beer has all the things that growing bacteria need to settle in and make a mess (which is one of the reasons that FORWARD SEALING faucets are preferred by homebrewers over REAR SEALING). The parts inside a pre-mix gun are...

Soda water (to be mixed EXTERNALLY with syrups) is looking like a winner, for a couple reasons: The plug valve, and the restrictor, are brass. Naked, uncoated brass. I can't imaging running anything more than water (or water+CO2) over that without either compromising the liquid, or the...

The tubing should be 5/16" ID (Inside Diameter) for the gas line, and 3/16" ID for the beer line. The fittings for ball-lock kegs are seen in #2, yes (though your system may use pin-lock couplers, or even Sanke couplers, depending on your kegs). #3 are hose clamps. You may also see them...

They're clearing out primary, single body, two gauge regulators here (the description is wrong, the picture is right): http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-single-gauge-regulator.html Perlick (or other forward-sealing) faucets are preferred: the rear-sealing faucets can gum up when not...

Beer? Root beer/soda? Lever movement forward engages center flow (direct, through the three-hole restrictor), backward engages outer concentric flow (through the "screw" and into a diagonal channel through the main valve). Two-way lever action and restrictor/screw suggest it was used for...

The FCM7SHWW doesn't have the floor space the SU had, as you've found. If you're going straight on the floor, with nothing on the hump, you've got quite a lot of room for three kegs (LOADS of extra room with ball lock cornys, good room with pin lock cornys, and as you've found quite a few...

Looks like another FCM7SHWW build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sleeves-ge-7-0-keezer-build-495883/

You have the FCM7SHWW model (the thermostat looks like the new style)? I'm working on my own GE 7.0 build, but since mine is going in the wholly unfinished basement, I won't be doing a coffin. I'll keep an eye on this, and try to keep my own build thread updated. Hopefully we...

The unit stands 33 1/2" tall. I stand 6' 4" (76"). I don't want to bend over too much just to pour a beer. I'll be adding a tall collar to it (remember, this model won't fit four kegs on the floor, so building a collar tall enough to allow a keg on the "hump" is already a necessity for...

It'll be 3am local before I get to sleep at this rate, and the images I uploaded to Flickr aren't linking here. As I haven't worked with this forum before for linking to or hosting images, this will have to wait. I will, however, throw a couple quick links in for reference. The first link...

As soon as the unit was delivered, I started tearing it down. NOTE ON HINGES: either remove them smart, or remove them with a friend. It is possible to safely remove them solo, either by disabling them (a nail may work, it did not work for these hinges) or by loosening the screws and sliding...

First, the official GE information: http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SpecPage&Sku=FCM7SHWW Listed (outside) dimensions are: 37 1/2" WIDE 21" DEEP 33 1/2" HIGH Interior dimensions are: TOTAL: 32" WIDE 14 1/2" DEEP 28" HIGH FLOOR (excluding the...

I'm building a draft box out of a new GE 7 cu ft chest freezer. The much-modified FCM7SUWW (and FCM7DUWW, to a lesser degree) model is no longer being manufactured, and I thought I'd offer some newer information for the current model. It is still possible to get the SU model, but existing...