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I run a CF 15 off an aquarium chiller. It works very well. I usually run the reservoir around 10 degrees below fermentation temperature. I'm currently fermenting a lager at 52 with no problem. I usually cold crash to 45 but I have done down to 42. My chiller only goes to 39 so if you want to...

I use a 1/3hp sump pump and it works great. Sometimes needs 1 quick swipe with a sponge to clean a few spots on the krausen ring but other than that is super clean. Even with that ease I find myself just hitting it with the hose and scrubbing with a sponge most times.

I just spray bottle all around making sure to get a good coating all around. Spray the coils while rotating too. No problems yet in over a year and probably 30 batches. Also, I've only disassembled a handful of times when cleaning.

Gimme some of that

I've got a hosehead and used for about 10 brews now. I put craftbeerpi on it and it's incredibly flexible. Runs both my 5500w elements with ease on my 50A outlet. Can set it up to run a bunch of different ways and even hooked it up to run a fermentation on my conical in a pinch. Remote access is...

I have an odd situation occurring with my current fermentation. Imperial red fermenting like formal through a blow off tube attached to a ball lock attachment on the gas manifold, about 4 days in I start seeing it slow down so I remove the ball lock to save some of the last bits of CO2 for...

Not sure of his temperatures but are you saying fermentation temps at 12 psi will carbonate fully? I have a hard time believing that. The 28 psi mentioned above is more in line with what I've seen, which is obviously impossible in the fermenter.

I believe that it's intended destination is on the racking port outside the butterfly valve. Otherwise you would have to leave it on the whole time, unless you had a butterfly on the sampling port too. I too just do the wand through the top for simplicity but if you didn't have one you could use...

The prv valve on the spike releases around 12-13 psi so nothing wrong there. I've done batches as you described and have had no problem with attenuation/yeast health. Mostly with Wlp001. If you don't have a way to cool it you should transfer to kegs and carbonate.

With just a regulator and some tubing it is easy. I probably wouldn't leave it hooked up through fermentation though. Probably remove and clean after oxygenation and reattach for carbonation. You could leave it but I'd fear yeast and hops settling on it and causing problems.

Yeah, I'd say you absorbed some co2 to make the pressure drop a bit. You did ferment under pressure but aren't carbonating if that is your goal. If you don't have the carbonation stone and a way to cold crash then you won't be able to carbonate. If that's not your goal what you did was fine.

It's fine to leave on. No risk of over carbing.

I did a 5 gallon batch in the cf15 and had no problem. I think it was about 6 gallons in the fermenter but it had no problems cooling. I just moved the thermowell to the sampling port. Did behave any different than the larger batches. Cold crashed and carbonated in the tank.

I just recently did a 10% coffee vanilla stout with 4 oz of dry bean for about 24 hours in a 5 gallon batch. Coffee was really intense right away so I pulled it. I had it in a keg dry hop cylinder so it was easy to get out and then I did the vanilla beans in the keg. 2. 5 weeks later coffee is...

What are peoples experiences with the carb stone and initial pressure? I've done a ramping pressure, meaning starting at 8 psi on the regulator so 4 psi in the tank and then ramping the pressure a couple psi every hour or so until I reach the target pressure in the tank. I had a fully carbed...

You need a reservoir. You have one pump that continually cycles the reservoir water through the chiller to keep the reservoir temp regulated, then a second pump to pump through the coil that is hooked to the temp controller on the conical. Reservoir sizes can vary by personal preference. I used...

That's the same one I have. Works great.

Ran a specific test on my cf15 for this scenario tonight. Took a water test of 11 gallons from 75 to 50 in 3 hours with a 10 gallon reservoir on an aquarium chiller set to 39 degrees. This was with my new jacket installed. Once it reaches temp the chiller doesn't run that much to keep that...

I've done both through the racking valve and just dropping the hose into the open pressure valve. Both are easy enough but I think through the top is cleaner plus adds some o2 splashing it in.

Mine holds pressure for extended periods of time without putting pressure into it. Can't really give any recommendations on how to get it to seal as I just clamped everything down and sealed up fine.