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Do you have any preferred place to use for such tests? Would Ward Labs have something that would fit the bill? Like their W-5 Household Complete Mineral Test.

I'm living rural enough to have a well and the ground around this entire part of "town" consists of just clay and thus the water has very high contents of various minerals and is quite hard. The house is fitted with a system from LifeSource. It's supposedly a maintenance-free system with plenty...

BYO and Zymurgy

I recently moved to a new house, away from a pretty darn good water, to a well water situation. It's very hard so the house is equipped with a LifeSource house filter to soften it. No added salts in other words. Does anyone have any experience with this system? Would I do a water test on the...

I planted a Chinook and a Centennial a few years back in barrels, but have since moved them to an in ground location. Problem is, I forgot to label them back then and I now have no idea what they are. There is no way I can tell them apart by looking at the to growth such as the leaves, flowers...

Not sure why you would add additional phosphorus to the soil at this stage. Seeing as you have some time before being able to transplant, encouraging growth seems to be the opposite what you'd like to do. Besides, you don't have much in terms or microbial activity in the potting soil and those...

Hahaha. Facepalm.

I would definitely transplant them in gallon pots, or they risk developing rot. I would not use growlight at first as that would just encourage more rapid top growth. What you want initially are roots so apply heat underneath by either use a grow mat or placing them on top of your fridge or...

That sure looks like two different types of mold, and not the good kind

This is most likely due to alkaline sparge water. If your residual alkalinity in the sparge water is high, you will extract tannins which will lend a harsh bitterness that never will go away.

Well, it's the go-to strain for NEIPA, so brew that...unless with IPA, that's what you mean. I'd do an Oatmeal Stout with a hefty dose of honey malt.

My water is rather alkaline (around 65 ppm) so I often have to resort to either acid malt and/or lactic acid in lighter beers to get down to an acceptable mash pH. I've used 1.5 - 2 ml in the past and is totally fine. Though we speak of 5 gallon batches.

I have to agree with that. 2 weeks after kegging and the beer is much better, something that you may not want to wait for in an NEIPA.

I have a yeast bank with around 10 different strain that I rotate through. I save yeast via larger than necessary starters, and not from slurries. Basically, I generally brew something with the oldest ones in the bank just to keep them healthy and somewhat fresh, and the bank therefor tells me...

I've had this happen twice before. I brewed with one that was almost 2 weeks old without any ill effects. But the foil was firmly on the flask and not loose as it is during fermentation. The second time it was slightly over 3 weeks, and I decided to simply throw it away and make another starter...

On paper 1450 seems like a perfect strain. I was going to use it myself my next NEIPA. I've used it before in various ales with great results. Clearly I did not remember the speed of this strain, so that may be the only drawback, but I also don't recall going over 2 weeks before kegging, which...

I honestly do not remember how much water I used as I just added some to a pot. The finished "product" was extremely thick and I had to ladle it out of the pot,

I sometimes forget to add adjuncts to the mash since it generally does not go through the mill. The last brew was one of those times (brewed a NEIPA). I omitted a pound of flaked oats during the entire mash so I quickly brought them to a boil in RO water in a pot and then let them sit for a few...

As far as I understand it, brewing with oil (avocados and coffee would be two examples) could kill head retention but not you. And the small amount of manufacturing oil you encounter certainly won't put you on the next train to the morgue. If the result is pleasant, I would continue drinking it...

I didn't know for sure as I could not find any schematic anywhere. However, the top of the fridge does not get hot as far as I can tell, but the sides do, indicating that you should probably not drill there but it's all systems go on the top. At least where I drilled :) I essentially gambled...