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Also, this is the NPT version, not the tri-clamp correct? Does it have all the stock features like dip tubes, whirlpool, false bottom etc

Bump again, still selling? Interested

Curious if this is still for sale?

Are you willing to drive part way to meet? In SW Wisconsin

5500w elements? 2 of them? included as well? Also can the panel operate 2 elements at once or just one? Amp requirements? (assuming 220v)

What size kettles/system? Electricbrewery control panel? or assembled yourself?

Just be aware that letting things "rest" in the kettle post boil will increase isomerization (bitterness) from flame out/late addition aroma hops. It's always best to chill asap and potentially pump through a filter/strainer into the FV. It won't kill a beer by any means, but brewers looking...

One thing I notice with my conical before you return those legs.... make sure your racking port is sufficient height to gravity transfer into a corny (or whatever you transfer to). As it stands I need to tilt my corny a bit to get it under the level of the racking port.

If you're using an ale strain and your temp has been steadily above 60, fermentation of residual sugars should be finished. That being said, I don't know what kind of byproducts you will get from addition of candies.... the more I brew the more time I give my yeast to "clean up" their mess...

My best eff was 92.6% (~90 minute boil) on my electric keggle herms. Super slow fly sparge, jaybird keggle false bottom, and a vertical style mlt (vs horizontal coolers) helped me approach the % ceiling on that one.

I built a PJ box last year and I had the same issue, 40% throttle PID output and 100% element heating no matter what I did. I swapped in a new 40a ssr (using a 5500w element in HLT and in BK), and it works like a charm now. Sidenote: I didnt have the first SSR properly cooled either, now I...

Hands down....Go electric. It's hassle free, quiet, clean, consistent, and cheap on brew day. Everybody in my brewclub hates their propane hassle and stress after seeing me punch in my strike temp and walk away.

Valid points and somewhat understandable, I'm just expressing concern wondering if they are trying to close the gap on blingman's crazy pricepoint... which would be a bad choice imo. I think a good chunk of Brewhemoth buyers like myself refuse to cross a reasonable price threshold that most...

Triclover + Chiller... Recently up from $589 to $774, I had been keeping an eye on price since I bought mine ~7 months ago... was hoping to add 2-3 more to my fleet eventually since they were a solid deal... but I'll be honest if the price is gonna start hopping around then I'll pass. You had a...

+2 I'm dealing with this right now. I added 2 vanilla beans after a month in the fermenter, but my Imp Pumking Clone is 9.7% and will take a while to mellow out the "jet fuel" notes.

I'm thinking the same thing... I run a single 5500w in both HLT and BK (15.5g keggles) and at 100% the boil is so vigorous you get continuous boilover... wayyyy too aggressive for normal brewing. Unless your vessel volume is >23ish gallons... twin 5500W in each vessel would be extreme overkill.

Yes I used two boxes of graham crackers in both my pumking"ish" brew and also in my gingerbread southern english brown... both brewed within the last month. I have read some good things about the flavor actually coming through. I also used sweet potatoes, squash, and raw cane sugar... so it...

I got a new SSR with new heatsink... and also tweaked settings some more. It's working now.... but I'm not sure which was the culprit. Point is... it's working flawlessly and I absolutely love the temp hold feature. Now I just need to make an app from my android phone to boot up my strike...

Thanks! I like it. And btw, I had read those sections and enabled manual by setting A=0 and A=1. Still no regulating of current... it's like the SSR is stuck closed. I can't find any other programming or calibration hints.

Triple post