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What SSR is it? Regular SS are good only for up to 5 Amp without a heatsink, If you going to use your controller box as heatsink - it should be big enough to dissipate heat generated by 20Amp (around 25Watt)

Do you mean connector for external antenna? OK - ESP32 WROOM-32U

https://aliexpress.com/item/4000078563825.html

Yes, it's possible to design your 240v controller box such a way that you can use with 120V only by simple plug adapter. For safety in case of 120V you can install wall outlet with GFCI like this one

Sorry posted a wrong link. Should be US $30.98 |XMT615 Intelligent PID Temperature Controller, Intelligent Temperature Controller, Temperature Controller|Instrument Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress. But anyway it's just an auto translation from Chinese I have experience with XMT612 and can...

So you need an L14-30R

This one has 24V out and proportional (manual) control option but size is smaller https://aliexpress.com/item/32810369139.html

NEMA L14 are three-pole and ground connectors rated for 125/250 V. Intended for three-pole, four-wire hot-hot-neutral-ground circuits . NEMA L15 are three-pole and ground connectors rated for 250 V. Intended for three-phase circuits. Are you installing subpanel at your home (L14 )or at some...

Which SSR do you have? Most of them have 3-24V input range.

For that size - https://aliexpress.com/item/32931565203.html

It's not too hard to implement OLED support but that particular display is too small. To fit all required info you will need to use really tiny font.

Even cheaper - US $2.83 26% OFF|1.37 Inch Programmable Digital Timer Switch Relay Control DC 12V 24V 20A AC 110V 220V 10A Time Controller Delay Relay Module|Timers| - AliExpress

As a work around you can take 5V wall charger and solder it to 5v and GND Use at least 2Amp 5V charger

120V 1500Watt is OK for stepping 4 gallons of mash. Though initial heat up and boiling will be slow. So if you can use burner as an aux for preheating and boiling you are fine with 120V . Without a burner it will work as well but will add a couple hours to your brew day.

The "Orange box" is a transformer and , most likely, it's OK. Semiconductors failing much ahead usually. Could you make a picture of area near transformer?

How big is your HLT? And How fast you want heat it up? You don't need to do anything special about water circulation at HLT. A natural convection will do it for you.

I can take a look to your STC and Arduino if you manage to pass it some how to Seattle area.

Install a 120v heating element it to your HLT and use PID to control it. Use burner to preheat water close to mashing temp then switch to electric heating to maintain desired temp. 120V will be enough since you need only 200-500Watt to keep a temp.

It's not hard to wire valves to PID and it will work mostly as you expect. However this design has 2 big problems. - Boiling water in HLT. To maintain an MLT temperature PID will switch circulation path back and force and while "short" loop is engaged portion of your mash in HLT coil will...

Not exactly. "Derivative" component take in account only previous value and can't handle longer history like a control signal prorogation delay. Also "D" only add or subtract some value from control signal but can't switch it off completely since it also a "I" and "P" components. Please check...