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yea...I was worried about HSA. I tend to condition many of my brews for some time . Although I've never detected any off flavors in older brew, I still figured I'd aim for better control while I'm upgrading.

I am a plumbing noob. I am upgrading my system and I am looking for tips...specifically venting. In my previous system, I was recirculating a la Jamil...with a tube/immersion chiller combo. I would try to get most of the air out of the tubing before placing the tube/chiller combo in the boil...

Ha..thanks... I really gotta learn how to read the whole post...

If you haven't sold it, I'll take it. How much you want? Shipping to Tampa, FL :mug:

Its 3/8". Still interested?

I have a 10 gallon mash tun cooler outfitted with a stainless steel false bottom and a stainless ball valve. I also have a 5 gallon sparge cooler outfitted with a stainless valve. It comes with a stainless sparge arm. The fittings are camlock...male on the valve, female on the tubing (sparge...

Hey brother. I'm in Tampa also and have had problems in the past dealing with tap water temps for cooling. I did the prechiller thing for awhile, but it isn't really effective. My advice is to spend your cash on a small aquarium pump ($15 w/ shipping on ebay) and recirculate ice water through...

I got a bad clog on my system yesterday. I typically just throw my pellets in free to the boiling wort...but I don't want to deal with a clog again. It got me thinking about building a hop spider. I have a question for those that use em. -Do you pull the hop spider out of your kettle while...

Got a nice 3 tap tower as a gift...but I need to change out the lines for longer (calibrated) lines w/ ball lock connections. I don't have a faucet wrench that (after some tinkering) I realized I absolutely need. I haven't found good info on the web, so I thought I'd ask for advice here...

does the keggle have a ball valve? didn't see one on your craigslist ad...

Can you provide a little more info on the temp controller? (unless its already been sold to Maverick...)

My 2 cents: I've had quality beers for awhile now and am very happy with my starter-to-pitch process. I make my starter the night before I brew (so...around 18-20 hours from pitch time). I keep my starter in my chest freezer-turned-ferm chamber at exactly 2 degrees below what my pitch...

I recently bought a dehumidifier (EVA DRY 500, I believe). It cost me about $25. I leave it in the chamber and it is bone dry in there. Love it. Highly recommend it!

Just to follow up: Pulled a sample before tansfering to a keg. Other than turning my beer from a hefeweizen to a krystalweizen (I left this bad boy in cold-crash mode for waaay too long), everything tasted and smelled fine. Thanks to those who responded. Next time I brew with this yeast...

I'm looking for keggles or 60qt SS pots to move up to 10 gallon batches. I live in Tampa, but I have family in Miami and travel there quite a bit.... Let me know if you're in that area and have any that you are looking to sell. Thanks

I've been wanting to find the right stainless pot that would fit in my mash tun for a while now. I really dig it. Can you point me to where you found that pot/liner? I'd really appreciate it!

I've always used Wyeast 3068... as for the wort, I stick with 60% malted wheat/40% german pilsner, 1 oz. hallertau, nutrient, and 2 minutes of pure oxygen. I ferment low (62 - 64). I guess this batch of yeast were just particularly over-zealous

I brewed a hefe a couple weeks back. I typically use a foil cover instead of an airlock. I've brewed plenty of hefeweizens this way and never needed a blow off tube. Well, this time it was missed. I opened my fermentation freezer and the sucker had blown up everywhere (62 degrees a la Jamil/day...

What is the tolerance on this controller (ex: +/- 2 degrees)?

Do you have any pics? What type of pressure-relief valves do they have? The big plastic type or the type you just screw in to place?