Search results

Wait wait wait - hold on a minute. I bought my PID and RTD together a long time ago, but never asked for this. I just connected them together and they worked. I have heretofore assumed that the PID from Auber automatically worked with either a K-type or RTD as the manual never mentioned the PID...

Here's my Coleman Xtreme 5-day 36 qt sous vide machine: The front: The inside showing the aquarium pump and Loc-Line hose: And the back: The heating element is much like a RIMS system. I call it "The Viddilator" (sous vide, vittles, eh). The controller was sourced from...

Maybe I'm not getting it, but why would you need such an expensive cooler for mashing? I use a Coleman Extreme 5-day, and I don't lose more than a single degree F over a 90 minute mash once temps are stabilized. Plus the Yeti and all other coolers don't have that convenient drain channel that...

Sorry for the slow response - I've been out. :o Yes, I just use the pipe nipple threads to use as it's own thread tap. One thing I learned last night when building my second one - don't force it if it's really close to bottom. I sort of "stripped" the threads more than I was comfortable with...

16 gram CO2 cylinders.

Glad to help! Let me know if there's anything unclear/confusing. This is just something I've been wanting to do ever since these threads about the Home Draft started showing up here. Unfortunately, I'm stationed in Japan and apparently AAFES doesn't ship any pressurized plastic bottles bigger...

It holds pressure quite well as there's apparently a check valve somewhere beyond the tap's original regulator. I'd guess there's a valve similar to a football/basketball inflation valve. I didn't want to chop the tap apart, and I believe that you'd have to completely destroy one to really...

At this point, no further hacking on the tap is necessary. (*whew*) I went to Home Depot (other DIY stores should be just as good, it was closest) and got parts to connect an air chuck from the above paintball regulator. Here's a pic of the completed assembly: That pic is with the "keg"...

(Sorry for the not-great pics, my Dad is kinda lacking in the camera dept., and I didn't think to bring my big guns.) So here is what we need to attack. There is a rubber grommet that surrounds the center plastic white piece - I removed it as you can see above, but it's probably not necessary...

OK, here's the part we're going to attack: You will need either a small precision flathead screwdriver or a sharp pick to remove the piece in the center. It's held on by two fingers, and I couldn't just push them in from the sides, I had to attack it from the top. Just lever them out of the...

Hey all, I've been following the threads on the Miller or Coors "Home Draft" system and how to use it for homebrew. It's cheaper than the Tap-A-Draft, but the problem is that it uses harder to find 16 gram cylinders, and the ones that are available aren't cheap (least not to me). I also didn't...

I initially tried weldless, and had quite minor issues with leaking. Honestly, if a tiny leak weren't *critical* in my application, wledless would be just fine. Better than that, you can re-use parts if you ever out-grow your current setup. But I run all-electric, and I can't risk water...

Having the BrewTroller, I'd say this: At this stage, if you want the ultimate flexibility, stand-alone capability is important to you, *and if* open source software appeals to you, go with the BrewTroller. The BCS-460 is a godsend for those that like to program, but not diddle with raw...

I grounded mine by soldering the ground lead to the electric element nut. Figure since that contacts the metal BK body with virtually zero ohms resistance, it's as good as attaching a bolt. And I might post pics in the future if I'm not too embarrassed with my work, but I will say that...

What's the gauge on the walls of the 20 gal brew kettles/MLTs and the conicals? And how well do the whirlpool brew kettles work? I know the "big boys" use whirlpool tanks, but that's 1000s of gallons vs. 8-20 gallons. Y'know, I may have to place an order when Uncle Sam finally sends me...

I was thinking of using my converted Sankey HLT for this very purpose. Sounds like brisket made easy. :mug:

OK, I'm an idiot. With that out of the way, I had major problems soldering tonight. Drilled a hole for the nipple, cleaned it up, sanded the pot around the hole, threaded the nipple in tightly, applied Stay Clean liquid flux, and disaster. Every time I tried getting the piece hot enough to...

Given that some have build propane-fired wooden brew stands, aluminum is definitely possible.

If you can find a rotary-knob, 120V-based PWM controller with an LED display for less than the cost of the PID, I'd like to see it. The only thing the PID lacks is the rotary knob. And if you use the PID on both the HLT and BK, it's like getting the PWM controller built into the PID for free...

Kegs tend to be narrower/taller, and for a given quantity of wort, you will have better submersion of the element. This can be offset if you can mount the element lower in a stock pot, as you can only mount the element in a keg at the lowest flat spot. I think I have about 1.5-2 gallons or so...