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One of my first Hazy IPAs was based off the initial recipe on this thread and was a 50/50 blend Crisp Marris Otter and 2-row (I think, along with oats and wheat). It was a decent beer, but had a bit of that muddy look to it. I do like the look of a little Munich to add a touch of an orange...

I tend to reuse yeast harvested after fermentation as I just find it is easier. Fermentation is going to make all that yeast anyway, so why not just scoop out a little to save vs dumping it down the drain? I have reused yeast from dry hopped beers or from 8% ABV beers, though it might not be...

I have had pretty good luck reusing yeast, but once it is past about 4 months, it can be a bit of a gamble. At that point I generally will make a small starter (say 0.5L to 1L) and add a few spoonfuls of the slurry. If it kicks off in a day or two, then you know you have some healthy yeast...

Yeah, I have been on both sides of that. A 42 that did not even place vs a 36 that jumped ahead for a gold medal. (Related to this thread, hopefully this fall I can time a brew day to get a Hazy IPA into a competition. The timing can be tough for time sensitive styles since you often have to...

As somebody that enjoys Belgians, I am often confused between the BJCP Belgian Blond Ale, Belgian Golden Strong Ale, and Tripel. There is a lot of overlap between those styles and many commercial examples don't cleanly fit into the descriptions. But I do look at a Single being the smaller...

For a hop stand, I often do what was suggested. I chill to around 180F, add in the hops, and give them a good stir. I often come back every 5 or 10 minutes to stir, but I don't know if that makes a difference. 20 minutes is my standard steep time. The temp usually drops about 10F over that...

My experience brewing with Voss is that even a very small pitch will work fine. I tend to think "under-pitch to increase esters" is a bit overhyped advice, but I have brewed batches pitching a very small amount of Voss. I maybe had a 12 hour lag time, but then the beers rocked to FG in another...

There is a thread with some interesting results on the topic at: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/limiting-oxidation-effect-of-purging-headspace-o2-in-a-bottle-conditioned-ipa.653784/ I won't go into details here, but I have done a few trails. For an NEIPA, the results of leaving a...

Maybe make sure the Tilt is floating free. If it is touching the side of the fermenter or one of the ridges, it will throw off the reading. In any case, I don't fully trust the gravity readings of the Tilt, but they are very handy for seeing when the gravity flat lines, and having a temp probe...

What I do, which seems to work well is.. 1) Calibrate the tilt in water to verify that it is reading 1.000. I don't think you have to do this every brew day, as it seems to stick well, but it is easy to verify. 2) At the start of fermentation, delete any non-1.000 calibration readings and set...

A Kveik yeast like Lutra is generally recommended for pseudo-lagers. There are a few vendors that have other "clean" Kveik strains as well. When fermented at 85F+, Voss adds a significant orange character (that some like, some don't). I fermented a Hoppy Blonde ale with Voss at both 85F and...

I agree. For years I just did a starter the evening before brewing in a 1L flask with just the occasional shake. I moved to a process that more closely followed the SnS method (evening before, 1L starter in a 1 gallon jar, shaken before pitching yeast). I picked up a cheap stir plate a few...

I am not 100% sure what you are proposing. There is a lot of overlap between fermenting beer and different types of starters, but there are differences. The goal of a starter is to provided an environment where the yeast can build up their cell structure and multiply (low gravity, agitation...

I am not sure what the difference is between a "Hazy Session IPA" and a "Hazy Pale Ale", but this MoreBeer look reasonably close to what I would expect for the general style. You can click through to the Recipe Sheet to see the recipe details...

Maybe, but this thread sure seems like a perfect example where a split batch would have been a great option. Want to try out a new yeast but you are not quite sure how it will work out? Just split a batch between a yeast you understand and the new one. Maybe the recipe will not be perfectly...

How would you describe the difference? I have been a bit curious about using EC-1118. I like that it comes in 5g packs and only costs $1.60 at my local shop (likely $1 online). That way, I would be fine using a partial pack and tossing the rest. I have been using CBC-1 anytime I bottle a...

I am sure it will work fine. I often bottle directly from the spigot on my Fermonster fermenters, that is directly from primary fermentation and I tend to transfer quite a bit of trub into my fermenter.

I agree. I started to make better beer when I put some focus on making better beer (water chemistry, fermentation temp, yeast health & pitch rate, avoiding oxidation, etc.). I think it was early 2000 when I "upgraded" from a basic 3-vessel system to BIAB. I don't see where the switch to BIAB...

How did you learn what ingredients go together when cooking? Likely by starting with published recipes, and experimenting from there. While beer is not as complex as cooking, there really is an almost infinite number of combinations that can be made. Much of it needs to be learned by hands on...

My experience (and what I see from others here and pros like Scott Janish) is that when you dry hop that cold, having a way to rouse the hops helps to extract flavors. I don't have a method to rouse my hops (without also rousing all my settled trub and yeast). When I tried dry hopping cold, I...