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I also like having Maris Otter, light Munich, and Pilsner malts in stock. Often a domestic 2-row.

The main difference is that a low mash temp gives a more fermentable wort without adding additional simple sugars, which the yeast will eat first because they are the easiest sugar in the wort to metabolize. What you could do is mash low and add sugar during primary. Once fermentation is slowing...

Used Notty a lot. Never had diacetyl at normal ferm temps. You will be fine. And in my experience with this yeast, there is no need to leave the beer in primary for over two weeks. It typically ferments out in 4 days, and I leave for an additional 3 days or so for the yeast to clean up any off...

The thing with Porter is that there aren't too many rules. The recipe looks reasonable in terms of grains and amounts. I would suggest, however, not using Cascade. These hops do not really complement the rich malt profile you want to emphasize. I would go with English varieties or hops that...

Hallertauer is great. You could make a delicious Dunkelweizen with any noble variety IMO. Go with a small chocolate addition and the 3068 yeast is winner. This beer needs a nice malt profile. I've only made using partial mashing, so not sure what steeping will do. Good luck...

I also like a wheat addition of about 10% as I don't typically use Crystal malts in my APA. I also agree with the use of a pale malt along with the Pils.

I ferment in buckets all the time. Loose fitting lid. Have brewed dozens and dozens of beers like this and never had an infection. I've left beer in primary like that for a month with no issues.

One more thing, add .5 tsp of yeast nutrient along with the sugar addition.

One effective method to achieve higher gravities is to reserve a portion of sugars for addition during primary fermentation. Instead of adding them during the boil, add them in increments as high kreusen tapers off. Take your sugar addition, sterilize in boiling water, allow to cool, and dump...

Yes to above posts. Having visited and drank in Czech Rep I can say that Diacetyl is not a significant component of the typical flavour profile for a BoPils. A subtle hint is all, often none at all.

Well, another thing to consider here is starting gravity. Higher starting gravity beers, above .060 generally benefit from an extra few days in primary after terminal gravity has been reached. I tend to do this with all beers, as the yeast has a chance to clean up any subtle off flavours.

Another hop choice that I like is Northern Brewer at 60 (17 Ibu) and Saaz and Northern Brewer at 15 mins. Add another (8ibu total) Another malt possibility is Aromatic.

Well, decide on your ABV And go from there. A Combination of Pilsner or Pale and Munich LME. 70/30 ratio is good. 1 lb sugar Steep or mash whatever combination of the following Caravienna 1lb Munich 1lb Biscuit 1lb Melanoidin ..25lb Special B. 2 oz or Black Patent if you like (1oz)...

Swamp cooler. Big bucket filled with water that you put your primary in. Add ice to maintain desired water temp. You can freeze some 1 liter bottles and use them and swap them out as needed. This is very effective as long as you monitor the water temp. You really are just concerned about the...

The OP wants to use dry yeast. I have made excellent Hefs with wheat extract, no grains at all. I done partial mashes with extract. All come out well with proper temp control. I have had good results with Danstar Munich at 17-18 Celcius. I don't prefer too much banana, so the slightly lower...

I can post a couple recipes if you are interested. I typically do partial mashes though, which gives you many more options.

Biere de Garde or Alt? BdeG is malt forward, with enough hops to just balance. Complex yeast notes. Alt is also malty, but finishes very clean and dry. It is normally in the 5% range, and firmly bitter. This is a lagered ale that is a wonderful session beer.

Yep, hop aroma is very volatile an dissipates quickly. Like the above poster said, pale ales, IPAs with massive dry hopping are best fresh. I usually have my pales ready in 3 weeks which includes a 3 - 4 day dry hop at room temps. It may not be perfectly clear at the start...but I don't care...

Since I started kegging, I always dry hop in the keg. It is very effective and simple if you use whole leaf hops and a nylon fine mesh bag. I just sanitize the bag, add hops and throw them in, with a bit of weight sometimes. If I remember. Doesn't seem to make much difference. Dry hopping warm...

Don't replace two row, but add complexity to the malt profile by adding in portions of Munich, biscuit, and a little melanoidin (5% of grain bill is a good start as this malt can become overpowering).