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An alternate suggestion that i have heard is to move the thermometer outside of the kettle onto the recirculation, as there isn't too much utility of the thermometer in the bk

Yeah, i would be recirculating, but i'm worried that the mash would be way too thick and really hurt my efficiency

I'm looking to order a Utah Bio diesel basket but am worried that there might be too much space under the basket, making the mash quite thick above it. I have a spike 15g electric kettle, which i use for 5 gallon BIAB. My thermometer and whirlpool port are a bit high, and would require the...

Can prolly just email spike with your kettle dimensions and ask them, they’re fairly responsive

Just out of curiosity what’s the logic for splitting the pump output? Just to make sure you don’t dry fire? Do you run pump on full blast with this setup?

I just got a new Brew Bag from brewinabag.com to replace an older and I’ve noticed the new one is very stiff, to the point it’s hard to work with. I don’t recall my older one ever being this rigid, so I’m wondering if they are doing something different, or if there is something I can do to make...

I was wondering if anyone has tried converting the brew commander to use a 4 wire 30 amp input. If I understand correct, if done properly you wouldn’t need the 120v plug anymore to power the pump? I have a 14-30 outlet, I currently use an adapter, and I was thinking of rewiring it to be...

How fast does silica gel work? I would think it isn't instantaneous and might not be able to keep up with the boil off... If you don't want to drill into your pot, get an extra lid and attach steam condenser there

Conntek PL1430L630 Generator Adapter 30-Amp 125/250-volt L14-30 4-Prong Locking Plug to 30-Amp 250-volt L6-30R Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVE93PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M-g3Db0BY3NTC Add this to that and you’re good to go.

Build or buy a steam condenser Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/Boil-kettle-condenser---no-overhead-ventilation-needed.636955/

I would email them and say you already own a controller but want to use their kettle And see what they say

I saw somewhere that somebody rewired a regular temp probe to work with the SS brewtech controller so it’s probably doable the other way around. I can’t remember where I saw it but I recall they had to essentially guess and check

Any PID controller will regulate the voltage rather than cycling the power off, so if you compare the PID they use to the ones that have the EZBOIL there are much more features on that. Even the brew commander has more personalizations etc. The PID used in the SS system, from what i've seen is...

At HBC they indicated mid to late fall if I recall correctly. Based on some of their more recent product reveals, I’m going to bet their SVBS is going to be significantly more expensive than the competitors. Additionally, their controllers are very mediocre compared to others. FWIW

Bobby, you can actually run the entire controller off 120v, which I found out due to my miswired outlet. If you would just make a jumper between the 6-30 and a standard 5-15, it will power on, and even heat up. Should make it easier for demos!

So have you won a competition with your brewery?

Yes, but like Bobby was explaining, on the EZ BOIL you can have it set to 100% to get to boil ASAP, and then auto ramp down to avoid boil over. You could keep it lower while ramping up, but then it would get to the boil slower. The mash mode throttles the power a bit to make sure it doesn't...

Ok Answering a few questions 1. Why do you need to use mash to ramp to boil? Couldn't you set it to boil at 100% and then change the power to 35% once you see it reach 211 and it is boiling? 100% power is a lot, if you ramp to boil too fast and are not able to dial it down quickly, you are at...

Completed my first brewday with the BC on Sunday. The brewday itself went pretty well, had no hiccups. I took bobby's advice and set it in mash mode to ramp up to boil, then switched over to boil mode. I was using the steam slayer so i set the power at between 30 and 40% (i was switching it...

EDIT: Just saw it in the previous page... my bad! I just noticed in the manual it requires a minimum of a 35A breaker for 3rd party electric heaters... Is that only if you use 7200W? I don't see why a 5500w 3rd party element would require a larger breaker