Search results

Ooh, I've coveted that mill for awhile. From the quick start guide (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0239/5187/files/2020_grain_mill_product_guide_2-5.pdf?3200) it looks like a 0 equates to a gap of 0.051" which is wider than I was expecting. I'll double check my settings but I'm pretty sure...

Yeah, def. not _super_ concerned with the raw numbers, more consistency. Since efficiency drops so much as the mash bill increases in size, though, efficiency is effectively a cap on FG unless you start lowering the batch size which is kinda annoying. I use a pretty nice mill (Barley Crusher)...

So this kinda thing (this is the default schedule for PicoBrew's recipe crafter when you choose high efficiency): Heat to Temp Pass Through 104 0 0 Dough In Mash 104 20 4 Heat to Mash 1 Mash 145 0 4 Mash 1 Mash 145 40 4 Heat to Mash 2 Mash 161 0 4 Mash 2 Mash 161 80 4 Heat to Mash...

Awesome, thanks, super helpful. While I have you, what is your efficiency like for normal batches? I struggle to hit higher than 57% or so with a 90 minute single infusion mash. I sprinkle a couple of teaspoons of 5.2 over the grains for every batch because I'm lazy. I really should actually...

I use a plate chiller so it is rarely an issue. Only really during summer months when our cold water is warmer does it potentially become an issue. Thinking that I should maybe run the chiller's water supply through an immersion circulator in an ice bath during the hottest months to deal with...

I know this came up awhile ago on this thread but I didn't see the exact info I was looking for. I've had a couple of brew days...umm...not go to plan and ended up with more foam than the foam trap could handle. Suffice to say it was a mess. I think I have my process dialed sufficiently to avoid...

The best thing to get are returnables. Nice long necks, nice thick glass. Good lip for wing cappers. Great all around.

Yeah, the problem is the short distance between the lip and the edge of that part at the top of the neck that is wider. What is that thing called anyway? For some reason most cappers have trouble with these types of bottles. Can somebody explain this? I have been curious for some time.

Whoa, that's awesome! I definitely need to start listening :).

I think the way you are doing it is good (as long as the FG number you get makes sense). If you are making a pale ale and fermentation is stopped at 1.025 or something you may want to repitch or do something to unstick your fermentation. First, your beer is going to be nowhere near the correct...

I know, that is really really high. Craziness.

Hmm, that will depend on a lot of things. In general that is probably correct. In theory you could make a very low alcohol stout or something that would have a SG around 1.045 and a FG of 1.020 or something (that would be like 3.3% ABV or so).

You asked my question :).

I will try to explain a little better :). When you take a starting gravity reading you are measuring the density of the wort relative to the density of pure water. The majority of the reason that your wort is more dense than water (a gravity reading over 1.0000) is the various types of sugar...

I don't think it is that simple. You don't want to bottle when there are fermentables left in your beer. That having been said, some beers should be high in unfermentables (an imperial stout being a good example) lending more body to the beer and resulting in a higher FG. It really...

Just to expand on what has already been said a bit. No matter how careful you are there will always be some bacteria and wild yeast in your beer. There is no way to avoid it. A good fast start will allow the good yeast to take care of most of your fermentables before any bacteria/wild yeast...

Hehe, thanks. Getting a flask in a few days...gona start doing starters. You saved me a big mess :).

You can pitch even higher with many yeasts. I pitched in the mid 90s (F) once (impatience is a powerful thing) and the beer turned out great. Most yeasts don't start to have serious problems until temps in excess of 100 degrees F. Just be sure that you bring the temp down to fermentation...

If you are using a pyrex erlenmeyer flask you can boil the water right in the flask. Most of those flasks are made to be autoclaved (120 degrees C).

If anything the stuff you are making is better for you. 1) Unfiltered beer has yeast which provides vitamin b which you lose lots of when you drink. 2) You are not adding any preservatives (unless you count hops). All beer is made with some kind of sugar. Yeast cells eat the sugar and...