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I can't explain why, but when I went from doing 3 vessel to BIAB my hop utilization decreased. Maybe it's that the wort isn't clear running into the BK.

I leave a small amount of beer in the FV, then swirl it all up and pour into a 2 L beaker. Let it set for 10-15 min. then pour off the cloudy liquid into an Erlenmeyer flask leaving the sediment behind. No washing, no rinsing just settling.

The difference between the BIAB and my MIAB is I vorlof the mash tun and run clear wort into the BK. I've noticed less hop utilization in the cloudy wort. I do 11 gal batches in the tun and 6 gal in the bag.

Always whittle with a sharp knife!

I use it along with their lemon peel and coriander in my Wits. 14 grams of each peal and 21 grams of coriander in a muslin bag at 10 min left in boil for a 5 gal batch. I store mine with the hops in the freezer.

Only that it was an accessory cleaning kit that came with the SS racking Kane.

You want between 50 and 75 ppm's calcium in the mash,but that amount in the entire liquor quantity would be more like a Helles. I adjust my mash to 75 ppm calcium with CaCl2 and don't adjust the sparge or the boil. I also add yeast nutes because of the lower calcium.

I bought the SS racking kane with the cleaning kit. It has a sponge on a flexible shaft that fits my CFC tube. after running a caustic wash I run that from both ends then caustic again, then an acid rinse.

I don't know if this means anything, the old single speed drills were AC motors and the variable speed ones are DC motors. With the torque needed to mill, if you slowed it down the heat created would fry that drill.

I stopped the craft beer buying because of the $$ and am now buying good bourbon instead, beets the hell out of 60$ barrel aged RIS's. I do make a 10%+ barrel aged RIS so I'm not missing out. Residence time in my brewery costs me nothing!

Garlic's up, had to bring in the peas,onions and lettuces I am hardening off, was 30* this morning. All kinds of stuff coming up under the lights waiting for May 15th - 30th.

I pump my 1.112+ RIS's onto a Notty cake that had a 1.044 or so bitter fermented. I also O2 it for 5 min at 1/8 L/min. The STD23 (stronger then dirt) is a bit thin so might bump up the mash temp from 150 to 154 for 2025, 2024 is in the barrel and we'll know more in Oct.

You want the starter to taste the way the end product should. I use 7 grams each of black and green tea per gal. Also another chestnut is don't try to make diet booch by decreasing the amount of sugar in a recipe. The sugar is for the yeast and acids and I use 225 grams per gal. I got my first...

I've had great success with 1007 and 2565, I pitch 2 L starter on a 1.044 wort at 55* and let rise to 58* over 3 days then to 62* for 5 days then 68* until krausen falls. Never any grape! They lager at 33* for at least 4 weeks under CO2.

They look good to me. You want the pH to fall quickly to form that pelical so temperature is important. I ferment mine at 78* , no higher then 86*. I found that over 78* it gets more tart and finishes quicker. 2 1/2 gallons at 78* I start tasting at 14 days, and bottle for F2 no later then 21 days.

^^^, that's why I use the 15/150/ 1500 step when I need to step, it makes the most viable yeast.

Obsession Ho! I also make one batch a year of wine from my grapes. Why not, you get a driveway screen and alcohol.

I have a 14" Lodge pizza pan I use as a griddle on my 18" Vision Kamodo. Works well for a party of one or two. I get 4 smash burgers at a time, and with the slot for an electric starter I can put wood pieces in without upsetting the cooking area.

I mostly do 250 ml overbuild starters and counted them 3 times and average was 30 million cells per ml. I put the date on and when ready to make a starter I input those #'s into the calculator and go from there. The key for me is doing it the same each time so it's repeatable. Also did some...

In the beginning I do the throw out 1/2 method, but can't stand to throw anything out. PANCAKES baby!