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These guys are local to me, first in HB and recently in Orange, CA. They have always been super helpful. When I purchased a 22 gallon kettle to convert into an eBIAB kettle, they did the welding of 1.5" triclover ports and did an amazing job. Really great folks!

The bigger issue is that only the main panel should have the ground and neutral buses bonded together. Sub-panels should be fed both ground and neutrals on independent wires. If the sub-panel is on an outbuilding, I believe that the ground should also be tied into ground rods. I think this is...

Doug is pure gold and there to make sure we don't burn our stuff (or ourselves) up! I've learned so much from reading his posts.

California and Kentucky? Love it! :rock:

I have about 10 new AIH corny kegs (maybe more?). Always looking for when they blow them out on sale to feed my inventory of fresh kegs. Great place!

I am pretty sure I know who you are talking about. I've frequented his web store many times over the years and have received nothing but great service and products from him. And his videos are incredibly helpful. Bob's your uncle! But as for my own LHBS, I need to throw a shout out to Windsor...

I had the same thought as Doug. You definitely need to have the neutral to your brew system connected to the neutral lug on the GFCI breaker. The white neutral coiled wire feeds neutral through the GFCI breaker, which is important for the breaker's ability to detect ground fault conditions. This...

Well, you can alter the "ot" parameter from 2 to 199 seconds with the default set to 2. If you raise this to 10 seconds, you will have less cycling and potentially more controlled behavior from your PID. I don't see why you would have to build a logic circuit to address this.

I like this implementation because it incorporates design features of industrial control panels with a GUI front end. I built my 1V/240 volt panel around a DSPR320, but at some point would like to upgrade it to RPi control. In my case, I'll probably adapt my CellarWarden software to allow for...

I'd suggest getting an Auber box. They are really nicely designed and will make building this much easier than a PVC box as listed. This one looks like it might work: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=384 Order this with the 60A or 72A heat sink so...

This looks good. Just make sure that your red and black wires between the relay/contactor and 240V outlet connects to the led indicator in parallel. One way to do so is to connect wires from the outlet side of the contactor directly to the LED. Most 240V contactors have multiple connectors for...

You will want to run your indicator lamps in parallel with the output sockets rather than in series. So, for the 240V outlets for the heating elements, connect each LED indicator to the black and red wires that lead to each socket. For the 120V outlets, connect the LED to the black hot wire and...

You might want to move the element indicators to after the relays and SSRs to show they are active only when the relays are on. Otherwise, this is looking very nice. Also, the fan may be unnecessary if you use the proper heat sink. I purchased an Auber panel with an associated heat sink and on...

Indicator LED lamps wired between the two "hots" after the relays/contactors feeding the 240V elements are also suggested. This way, you will know when the elements are active and could help to prevent dry firing and other mishaps.

I strongly suggest adding fuses to the 110V (120V?) sockets. Without fuses, those wires could potentially attempt to carry a load of the breaker (50A?) connected to the power in on the box. A short or overload on the 110V line would very likely melt the 110V and possibly cause a fire. You can...

The OP mentioned: " I've got a little problem with the output of the PID controller being too short to fully turn on the induction coil. " My interpretation of this is that the cycle time is too short, which defaults to 2s. I agree it would be best to use the shortest cycle time possible for...

According to the manual for this PID (I think this is it based on your picture), you can adjust the Control Period ("ot"). It defaults to 2 seconds, but you should probably set it to something higher like 10 seconds to work with your induction heater. Here's the manual...

Really sorry to hear this about Pat. I've been an avid BIAB brewer for the last 7+ years, and I can only thank him (and other Aussie pioneers) for his contribution to home brewing. He's saved me many hours off my hundreds of brew days, and for that I (and my family!) are thankful. May he rest in...

If you have a multimeter, I'd suggest checking the resistance on each of the wires between the probe and the terminals connecting to the DSPR.

Yeah, that doesn't sound right. How are you wiring in your PT100's to the DSPR320? Are you using the kind that have spade lugs and directly wiring, or are you using the XLR or mini-XLR versions? If either of the latter, it is possible that there might be some extra resistance due to connections...