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Yeah I always aerate AFTER pitching. Maybe that's a no-no, but I've never had a problem.

So that I'm understanding correctly, normally you aerate and THEN pitch the yeast? And now you're realizing you forgot to aerate before pitching?

Some yeasts produce different flavors at different ends of their temp ranges. What yeast is in the kit? Other than that, cooler usually means slower and hotter usually means faster fermentation, though that usually comes at a price of potential off-flavors.

What temperature do you ferment at? I had the EXACT same problem with a batch ultra-fermenting (it actually hit its intended FG within about four days). Two things I learned. 1. The ambient temperature of the bottle is probably 5-10 degrees colder than the temperature of the fermenting wort -...

Nice. I like using the refractometer way better, and even if I was making ten gallons, the amount of liquid lost to a hydrometer would still irk me. It's like half a beer! I have no need to "sample" that much beer every time I check the gravity - the few extra drops left over from the...

Sweet, thanks!

Bought a refractometer a couple months ago and I'm really enjoying using it to measure pre-boil and OG before adding yeast. However, I was very confused to make a couple batches that I thought were under-attenuated because I kept using the refractometer to find the Brix (and then gravity) of the...

SMaSH sounds fun! I have a little less than an ounce of Sorachi Ace in whole hop form - it'd be really cool to make a SMaSH using it. I'm brewing 2.5 gallons, so that's probably enough to get the flavor out of the hop, no? Suggestions on a malt to use?

Ambient, so I suppose it's warmer in the middle of the wort - or was when really active fermentation was going on.

My fermentations usually stay around 72d in the winter. Definitely no colder than 70.

Yeah, I just wondered if anyone had thoughts on a yeast that would be close to the original - or, at the very least, not impart any strange flavors that would make the beer less of a clone.

I live in a apartment where space is an issue, so one gallon at a time is about all I can sustain no clue what I would do with 5-6 gallons of cider at a time (along with all the homebrew beer I'm making). I'd be floating in bottles.

I've been brewing one gallon batches of beer but am about to upgrade. Rather than have the six one gallon fermenters I have sit around collecting dust, I was thinking about using them to make some cider (or mead). Can anyone point me in the direction of some good one-gallon cider threads? Or...

I have a Short's Good Humans clone recipe I want to try out. For those who haven't had it, it's a "hoppy double brown." The ingredients come directly from the brewer, but they don't list a yeast. Which should I use?

Tomorrow I'm brewing a Winter Wheat beer - figure I only have a couple more brew weekends before I can't brew "winter" things anymore. This is also the second to last one gallon batch I make before I upgrade to 2.5 gallons (for the most part).

Brewed a breakfast-y stout three days ago. 2.5 pounds of grain (a one gallon batch) plus a quarter pound of brown sugar at flameout. Original gravity was 1.061. Fermenting with about 1/3 a vial of WLP545 (Belgian Strong). Three days later the Brix is 8, which according to my calculations puts...

I've always had problems with trying to dump back in after taking a hydrometer reading. I know your inclination is to want to keep as much beer as possible (this is especially true as I was brewing one-gallon batches at a time) but I wouldn't recommend it.