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and how do you cool it to 58? do you put it in the ferm chamber to cool it? aerated and ready to pitch? or you aerate after getting to that temp?

the problem is that i'm running out of homebrew, i only have 2 bottles left, since i couldn't brew until i got my new freezer set up. so maybe i'm rushing this one a bit, but before i would bottle after two weeks and i didn't notice any problems with that. this is my first attempt at dry...

i recently setup my ferm chamber and i currently have a pale ale of my own design fermenting at 64,4 F. i was thinking maybe raising the temp to 68 F after 5 days, then after 2 days dry hopping for 5 days and then maybe cold crashing at 34 F for 2 days. is this a good plan, or should i leave...

there is an Italian beer made with 15% lentils Mastri Birrai Umbri cotta 74 i haven't tried it, but a guy from my local brew forum recommends it...

Not a bad idea, maybe i'll try something like this... @christpuncher123: I dont have enough munich for two batches like that, and the idea was to use most of the ingredients and to make something she wont drink as much, i can drink almost anything :mug:

I'm planing making two 5,5 gal (21l) batches, one for me - not to bitter (30 IBU) but with some hop aroma and maltiness, and another one for my SWMBO even less bitter (20 IBU) and more malty. This is what i have: Pilsner (2 Row) 22,05 lb (10kg) Munich Malt - 13L 2,2 lb (1kg) Caramel/Crystal...

thanks, i'll check out the wine making supplies stores as soon as i can. so what about those other values, have i gotten them wrong?

So doing some research on campden tablets, i've found that ascorbic acid (vitamin c) is also good for removing chloramine. http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/pdf/05231301.pdf Can it be used in brewing?

i was not trying to be cryptic :) my location is croatia (short HR), i don't have a LHBS here so im not sure if i can get any of those things you mentioned. the values are all in ppm (i used an online convertor to input the profile to beersmith), witch i obviously entered wrong... here are the...

I haven't used any water adjustment yet, so i have no idea what numbers i should be adjusting and how. I know my water is probably better suited for a darker beer but i was thinking of making an APA or an IPA. This is the profile from my local water spring (so tap water is similar but i don't...

its probably not a good idea to put boiling wort in a plastic or glass fermentor, plastic melts and glass breaks. plus you would screw up your fridge!

you can always bottle prime, i use a teaspoon of table sugar for a 0,5L bottle, and 1/2 teaspoon (with a little extra) for the 0,33L

next time read the sticky posts before asking questions that you obviously dont want to be answered

read this!

just be careful that you dont create a vacuum and it sucks the content of your airlock in, so loosen your lid a little when pouring the beer. and remember to clean and sterilize the spigot when done :mug:

from where did you get that? 3 weeks fermentor, 3 weeks bottle, few days fridge, then drink :mug:

the caps have rubber underneath so the rust probably wont have any contact with the beer

just rinse your bottles with water a few times after drinking them, and it will be much easier to clean next time. and he meant this bottles

I've started cooking pellets in a strainer bag, and to make sure also pouring the wort through a double strainer bag. And after bottling from the primary there was only yeast in the trub.

maybe you could vacuum seal the opened dme