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The yeast may or may not be dead, but the sugar should still have stayed in solution unless your FG was ridiculously high.

I'd think it would be something other than the sugars, yeah. Dextrose is really soluble - did you mix it in boiling water before adding? If not, maybe I could see it falling out of solution. Maybe yeast or protein clumps, but after a couple of months that should have fallen out. Do you have...

Since this thread started, I've learned that time = clarity. A couple of extra weeks in bottles produces very clear beer other than a slight chill haze, and two weeks in the fridge gives absolutely brilliant clarity. My new enemy is carbonation. A beer that was perfect after 2-3 weeks in...

Oh wow, I've never heard of that happening. I didn't know that sugar could re-crystalize after a boil unless it was super-concentrated. Maybe it's other stuff - how long has it been sitting after bottling and what was your carbonation sugar type/amount?

What do you mean you see a lot of residual sugars? Barleywines are supposed to be big malt bombs with a lot of sweetness. 10.5% is pushing it for a lot of yeast, meaning they can barely work at that level of alcohol. You might do well to turn the bottles over once a day to rouse the yeast and...

No real point in secondary for this beer. If you really want a clearer wheat, just wait longer in primary and make sure to cold crash for a few days, or alternatively sit the bottles in the fridge for a week after they've conditioned.

Make sure to give a long 90 minute boil with all that pilsner. No big deal working at 5 gallons instead of 5.5, it will just have a bit higher ABV. You'll do well to have a yeast starter at that ABV though.

It all depends on how long you had it fermenting before you moved it down there. If more than 3-5 days, primary fermentation could have been just about done. Often, the primary fermentation will go from very active to almost quiet in less than a day.

That actually looks pretty similar to mine, which I consider cloudy. For example you can't see the countertop pattern through it except a little at the very bottom where the liquid is thin.

http://www.cityofchicago.org/content/city/en/depts/water/supp_info/water_quality_resultsandreports/comprehensive_chemicalanalysis.html I was going off 2011 report, looks like the 2012 is out now. Not much has changed.

I had hoped that getting a wort chiller would help, I picked one up after my first three batches and now cool the wort from boiling within 15 minutes very reliably (sometimes in 5 minutes with the 2.5 gal batches). Why does bulk conditioning clear beer better than it would in bottles over the...

What yeast was it? Not tasting alcohol in your beer isn't necessarily a bad thing; most good beer shouldn't have any alcoholic bite.

Not being able to produce a clear beer means to me that there's something attainable and desirable but not understood. I don't mind an unintentionally cloudy beer that tastes great, but I would have a great sense of accomplishment if I can figure out the missing piece. I love giving out my...

Yeast wise, I'm solely a dry yeast user so far. I use one pack on 2.5 gallon and 5 gallon batches and don't notice a difference there so I doubt it's under-pitching as a primary issue. My most used yeast is nottingham, so it shouldn't be a flocculation issue. With the BrewBrite, that can't go...

Starsan works as an excellent anxiolytic on germophobe wives.

I have trouble keeping bottles in the fridge for more than a few days. For some unknown reason they disappear after that, so I'll try longer fridge times on some of my current batches and also look into the distilled dilution. Thanks guys.

I'm brewing with Chicago city water. I'll add some CaCl usually, gypsum occasionally, and lactic acid if the water calc says I need it. I only have PH test strips but things seem to be in the right range there. HCO3- is at 129ppm by the water report. A little highish but nothing crazy at...

Doesn't sound like you made any mistakes so much as did things a little less efficiently than you could have.

Rouse the yeast in the bottles by turning them upside down and very gently shaking them. Do this every day or two for a couple of weeks, if you still have viable yeast they'll carb up. I've had this happen a couple of times with bigger beers especially, where they need the assistance to pick up.

I'm 14 batches in and I have yet to be able to produce a beer with perfect clarity. I use whirlfloc and primary for 3-4 weeks. I've tried adding gelatin and waiting a week with only minor effect. I'm not dry hopping. I've both filtered wort and dumped everything. I've thought about longer...