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Welcome! You've found the right place. I've been here for quite a few years and the guys here are super friendly and incredibly knowledgeable. Look forward to hearing more about your first beer. Cheers!

So, I rewired the panel using the correct pinout configuration on the relays and I had an electrician review the wiring in my panels and guarantee that the GFCI breaker is operating as intended. Everything fired right up and operated perfectly. Thanks for all of your help!

Yep, you've nailed it. I've wired the relays incorrectly, and I have no good excuse because I used the exact same relay on the previous appliance and apparently got it right that time. I will fix the wiring, and repair my GFCI then test and update you guys within a few days. Thanks again!

I had not considered that. For some reason I took one glance at this thing and I was certain I understood the pin out... though now it has just occurred to me that I'm not sure at all...

I had not considered that. For some reason I took one glance at this thing and I was certain I understood the pin out... though now it has just occurred to me that I'm not sure at all...

I attached a photo of the relays I've used. Are the relays sensitive to polarity? ...or do they just work like switches and close the circuit?

I will check the voltages on the receptacle this afternoon.

Since the new appliance uses separate 110 and 220 circuits, it needs neutral to return one circuit and ground to return the other. Since they are bonded in the subpanel, the main breaker seems this is a hot to hot short and throws the main breaker.

When I turn on the main power keyswitch on the appliance, the main panel 60A standard (it's definitely not GFCI) and the subpanel 30A GFCI BOTH trip. I'm pretty certain that isolating the ground and neutral from one another in the subpanel will resolve my issues, and looking at the relatively...

Sorry if I was unclear, Doug. Let me see if I can answer all your bulletpoints in order: My main service panel, and by "my" I mean my brew partner's, is a 100A service with a (I believe) 60A non GFCI breaker powering the subpanel in the garage, where the brewery is housed. We had electrician...

I fully understand now that, with the ground and neutral bonded a second time in the outdoor subpanel, the GFCI installed there can't work properly. What I don't understand is why my original electrician would run 4 wires from the house to the garage, and not attach them to separate busses in...

So, you're saying I could just move the ground lug attached to the appliance enclosure off the ground supply wire and attach them to the line 2 supply wire instead? Am I understanding that right? Are there advantages to adding an 8 foot ground pole inslead?

How can I change the box wiring to work like the old box? I like saving money lol

So, if my main box inside the house has the bonded neutral and ground, and the same is true in the outdoor subpanel where we had a 30a GFCI installed to protect the receptacle we planned to use, that receptacle would properly power the previous appliance but throw the main indoor breaker if...

Sorry for the newb questions, I hired a professional electrician to handle the subpanel part, lol. Can you tell me exactly what I'm looking for to determine the subpanel's efficacy? Do I need to be checking out the main panel at all?

I'll research that right away.

It's the same receptacle I used for the previous box I built. Though, that box box didnt use the neutral leg at all. I'm not sure if that rules out the outlet.

Instead of removing all of the line 2 connections, could I just remove the line 2 supply wire where it comes into the box to the same effect? Then, test it that way to rule out hot to hot shorts?

My diagram, after the E-stop modifications I made, looks like this now:

Just to rule out another potential problem: switches and relays dont care about polarity right?