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PBW and new seals and you'll be soda-free. I always keep a handful of keg seal kits around. They're only like $3 - which is a good investment vs a $30 batch of beer being ruined.

I work backwards. I look ahead on my calendar and choose dates that I want certain beers. I count back the right amount of time based on the beer and put a brew date on my calendar. That gets me about 50% of what I brew a year. For example, I always do a session smoked Scottish ale for deer...

I've got a window of about 8 months. I would love to build a beer to age during that time frame. I've done aged barley wines, Imperial Stouts, Imperial Reds and a few sour and brett projects. I'm looking for people's experiences with successful aging of beers - whatever you've done that...

They're also eating Diacetyl and other byproducts of reproduction.

The corner of my basement where I ferment gets quite cold in the winter as well. Ambient temp is around 52-53 at the coldest part of the winter. My standard practice is to ferment until activity has reduced and the beer has started to clarify - then I raise temperature up to about 72 for 2 to 3...

I tend to go longer. I would suggest splitting a batch up. Maybe move to 5 @ 1 gallon and try various lengths of time.

https://v.cdn.vine.co/r/videos/48CADB52DB1058208737942740992_1395270813155c07d405732.mp4.mp4?versionId=wAtQOlKpLQFD6kpReKxgs_btZEJr2tSK I added some of the Sour Skittle syrup last night. Knocked the krausen down to nothing and either it's growing a pellicle or the scum from the skittles is...

I fully expect this to be an ongoing project. I did 1.5# of skittles as a very thick syrup. The palm oil formed a skin on top - I'm going to remove that, i assume like any oil it'll drastically reduce head retention. I plan to add it in small batches as fermentation slows. Tasting as I go...

So, I'm doing a Sour Skittles beer. It's my wife's favorite candy and she loves sour beers. I've got tasting notes from Brett Trois specifically mentioning skittles and candy flavors - so I'm going that way. I did a basic Golden Strong recipe - but in place of the sugar I did a syrup of...

Ok, so for those of you who have used it - can you give me some guidelines on mash temp and expected extraction rates?

oops, here's the red millet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-H04mQffqtZklLdXpRR2w2QVNSank1YmU4R1ZNanplSURn/edit?usp=sharing how do we interpret the DP number from this? How does it convert to degrees Lintner?

Old post - but I figure you might still be interested. Here's the analisys sheet of the millet from CO Malting. Short answer - very low. Way below self converting. CMC MILO and RICE

thanks, I'll try that next time.

Yeah, that's the correct temperature range. The lower in that range the more fermentable the wort will be - the higher the less. So a lighter beer that you're looking for a dry finish will be in the 148 range - while a bigger beer that you want to finish sweet might be as high as 154-156...

http://www.beersmith.com/Grains/Grains/GrainList.htm Look at the "must mash" column. If it says "yes" that means that the sugars are still being stored as starch - and that the mash process is needed to get them into sugar format so that you can brew with them. If it says "no" that means...

good advice. You should be looking for 400 billion cells for that big a beer.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/brix-converter/ Just different scales (think F v C for temps)

he's suggesting a dicetyl rest then dropping temps. Dicetyl is made when the yeast reproduce - it's the chemical they use in artificial butter flavorings. After a majority (70-80%) of fermentation is complete people often raise the temperture to something like 72 degrees for a few days to give...

Totally agree. I was somewhat talking around your point - but we're coming from the same place. When I first moved to all grain I had these images of complex tempterature profiles. Later I started simplifying - and the beers are still getting better. Modern malts are perfect with single...