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As you probably know, this fridge is perfect for use as a kegerator. It fits 2 corny kegs and a 5 lb CO2 tank. I have not installed a tap, but instructions can be found elsewhere in the forums. Message me if interested.

I am limited to about four lbs of grain in the mash, because my cooler is only 2 gallons. More importantly, however, I'm limited to boiling only about 3 gallons on my stove. I live in the city, so I have nowhere to brew outside. Based on feedback, I think I'll stick to PM for the time being.

I've been doing the "countertop partial mash method" for my brews (4lbs grain in igloo cooler with grain bag), and I got to thinking. What if instead of adding extract at the end, I just do another 'partial' mash and boil? I think this might also be referred to as Texas Two-Step. So say I find...

Wouldn't this only be true if you're priming your keg?

There we go. Thanks for the reply. Sorry I wasn't clear initially.

Ha, drool. I disagree with you, though. I don't particularly enjoy the aroma until it's been fermenting. However, I do like the smell of the mash.

I just switched to Better Bottle for primary, from an Ale Pail. I needed to use a blowoff for the first time. Good thing I caught it before it blasted all over the ceiling.

Perhaps my question wasn't clear. I am not interested in when I should be concerned with sanitation. I know the answer to that. I am curious about the biological and chemical process, and how a bacterial or mold infection occurs in that respect. Does the CO2 found after primary fermentation has...

So I guess your answer is anytime after cooling to pitching temps.

How long did you have it fermenting before kegging it?

There's a lot there about how to sanitize and how important it is, but I'm not seeing anything relevant to my question. Could you be more specific?

I'm wondering at what points is beer the most susceptible to contamination from bacteria or mold infection. For example, I'm guessing that it isn't very vulnerable if you're racking to a keg and putting it straight into the fridge. Anybody have any better knowledge on this than me?

Another question: I'm guessing I have to toast the malt whole. Which means I'll have to crush it by hand, right? Is the rolling pin and a ziploc method acceptable?

Thanks for the advice. What if I replace the Munich with extract (AHS's is 20% Munich), put the biscuit, crystal, and special roast in the mash, and add a pound of 6-row instead of pale malt, for extra enzymes? Would that be better, or will I get the same effect from steeping those specialty...

This recipe has been mentioned here before, but it's from the Hophead on the green board, and it is reportedly extremely close to Fat Tire. I need some help converting the recipe to partial mash. Do I consider the amber malt to be enzymatic, or non-enzymatic? I have a maximum capacity for the PM...

Where do you get all these recipes? You have HUNDREDS of kits! There's no way you've brewed them all, is there? Every one I've gotten has been at least good, and there's been some fantastic ones. (Honey Wheat never lasts long around my apartment.)

So at what point do you cool it down? How long in primary, secondary?

Move to partial mashing and late extract addition. I had extract twang until I used the method in this article: http://byo.com/feature/1536.html

This is a very confusing topic as there are a lot of differing opinions. I'm trying to gather all the information I can to figure out when is the best time to rack to secondary. From what I've figured out so far, you should rack it when the primary fermentation is over. You can tell this by...

According to howtobrew.com, the oxygen is for the stage before primary fermentation, when the yeast are reproducing.