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Everything has been sold.

Sorry, no shipping and no splitting. You gotta take the whole thing. :)

I'm putting my brewing on hiatus for a while and I don't want to keep my ingredients around until I start brewing again. I store the grain in the 6.5 gallon food safe buckets with gamma seals. The grain is all about 6 months old but it's never been out of the buckets since I bought it. Each...

Beers with higher OG's can take a bit longer to carbonate. I would give them another week. You might be surprised at how much difference a week in the bottle can make.

It's quite easy for bits of hop debris to clog up the poppets. Unfortunately the only solution is to take apart the post and clean it out.

+5 Amber Ale = 31,321.5 gallons

If all you want to do is grab a couple of beers, you can walk right in anytime and have a drink in your hand within 5 minutes unless they're serving PTY. If you want to sit at a table, expect to wait. On a busy weekend the list may be 2+ hours. While you're there, pick up a couple of bottles...

+5 hoppy pale ale 26,977

I have a related question. When did it become socially acceptable to let one loose while you're standing at a urinal and then pretend like nothing happened. I'm pretty sure this is a recent phenomenon.

I have been buying mine from Bells. https://bellsbeer.com/store/categories/Homebrewing-Supplies/Brewing-Ingredients/Hops/Pellet-Hops/1-lb-Bags/

+5 wheat beer 26,357

How are you going to force carb the bottles? Some people claim there is a slightly different flavor between force carbed and naturally carbed beers but if you can even perceive it, it will be VERY slight.

You won't be able to naturally carbonate in a keg if the keg isn't full. You're right on about the excessive headspace being the culprit. You will have to force carb it. If you use the priming sugar in the kegged beer, the yeast will wake up and process the sugar, just like they do in the...

Yes I meant isn't relevant. :) You're overthinking it. It simply refers to the concentration in the water you use to brew. This is why I said to just add the minerals to the strike and sparge water and don't worry about the rest. Don't worry about ion concentrations in the mash tun or the...

I add my salts to the strike water and sparge water. It does require a little bit of stirring but, especially when the water is hot, they dissolve without too much extra encouragement in my experience. I use Bru'n'Water. It's a little intimidating but it does come with clear directions on one...

I did finally figure out the problem I was having. Here's the post I made about it and the solution: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/efficiency-too-high-464223/index3.html#post6310615

+5 American Wheat 26,025

It could be both. Any error in any measurement, whether it's grain weight or volume of water in the HLT, is going to affect the efficiency.

I told you what probably happened in post #11.

This is the clincher for me. When you took your pre-boil wort sample, the wort in the kettle was stratified. Denser liquid was at the bottom (near the ball valve) and the less dense liquid was at the top. I once had the same thing happen to me, but my efficiency, which was already typically in...