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The freezer is still available. I am just north of Greensboro. Local pick up only for this one.

Ok, I'm gonna part this out. $200 for the freezer (pretty sure it's 7cuft). $50 for the keg $30 for the temp controller $20 for the copper

I put together this thing last year before I got out of the brewing hobby. Here's a thread with pictures. I'll sell the whole shebang for $350 (includes chest freezer with collar, ST-1000 temperature controller, a Sanke keg (dip tube removed), 50' of copper tubing, and 8' of Flex-Watt...

Sold! To the man from Gaffney!

It's approx 7' x 2'. It rolls like a gem too, so you could store it and move it out for brew days.

Well my father-in-law is a welder, so he and I did it all.

Really the only major thing I would change would be making it single tier but that is really just an aesthetic change since I already have two pumps. There would be a little bit different piping in that case of course too. Why don't you save yourself some trouble and come take a look at this...

Bump and $500 price drop! Pick up this whole rig for $4000!

Yeah, you're right. I'd have to run some kind of soap through and then PBW. Good news is I have a SS chugger pump and 1/2" stainless hard plumbed system. Otherwise I don't even think I'd consider it.

Yeah, I guess I should've mentioned my MLT is a keggle, so there would only be stainless touching the stock. I guess a good long soak and circulation with hot PBW should eliminate any stubborn fat right?

Has anyone here attempted this before? False bottom, precise temperature control, large cooking vessel. Seems like it would work but I worry about all the fat and floating debris somehow getting into a nook or cranny and never coming out. I don't think I would risk running the stock through my...

Here's the latest update on this project. I'm still not convinced it will work, but it is coming together more or less as I had planned. I built a relatively standard, simple slip on collar using 2x4 and 1x6. I drilled a couple of holes to hold 4" nipples (I think they are 3/8"). This...

Thanks for the info, my father-in-law is a welder, so my labor is free.

Yeah, I'm sort of in the same boat. The only thing I found that might have worked, which I can't find again right now, listed a time of 90s to open or close. That's WAY too long for this valve. I don't particularly mind the actuator being only two states since I generally use the valve as an...

Anyone interested? Willing to ship!

Yeah, of course you COULD do that! In fact, right now I use one of these for my input. But the ID of a 3/4" NPT is about 1/2" whereas the ID of a 1" TC is about 7/8". Also, I'd prefer not to have threaded connections post boil, although as mentioned, this is a secondary concern. Tell me more...

I'm currently conceptualizing my next build and an considering a U-shaped RIMS tube to keep all my wiring on the back side of the rig. Is there any reason to think that 1.5" tubing with a 180* turn would cause any problems with flow, heating, temperature readings etc?

Thanks for the advice. I luckily already have a 120V GFI outlet in my covered outdoor brew area. I am planning to set up my fermentation chamber a short distance away, just inside a window, so I could easily run the CAT5 out that way.

I can't recall seeing this idea done much if at all on these boards, but it seems like an interested possibility. I was wondering about welding triclover fittings onto a Chugger pump head. I have two stainless center inlet chugger pumps with Triclover X FPT fittings. The ID of a 1" triclover...

Does anybody know of an (affordable) valve actuator that could be retrofit to one of these three way ball valves?