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i cut a little time when going electric not a ton maybe went from 6 hours propane to 5 hours electric. But the big difference is i don't need to be nearly as attentive. I can flip the switch to get the water heating and go take care of some other things brewing related (or not) without...

you could transfer what is not frozen to another keg. and have a keg of super strong ice beer LOL

i would ditch the 30 min hop addition. aging this long all you need is early bittering everything else will be lost.

this is exactly what im looking for... i saw that Plaato Keg integration was mentioned. Is that integrated or still in the works

kegs wont make the beer better. it will make brewing easier and faster but will have little impact on the final beer. if you want to make better beer 100% start with being able to control you fermentation temp. you may have a 68 degree spot in your house but fermenting is an exothermic...

thats what i did with my braggot. it sat in a carboy for 10 years then i keged and carbed it

A triple might be a good choice. personally i would not bottle carb it. i would ether over carb it in a keg and then bottle from the keg (over years i have noticed you will loose some carbonation. or even better store it in a keg with (purge with CO2) then carb it perfectly in 18 years. A...

love my Blichmann tri clamp as well. was deciding between that and the SS Brewtech. the added in gas in post on the blichmann was the thing that tiped the scale. works great

18 years is a very long time. I've done a few beers that i have aged between 5-10 years A crazy RIS 18.4 ABV. This was aged for 6 years. it probably could have aged longer but it was so damn good i ran out of bottles at the 6 year mark. A barlywine 10% ABV Aged for 5 years. was really...

back when i bottled. save up the bottles until you have a case or two. fill the bathtub with hot water and oxiclean let the bottles sit overnight. most of the labels will be floating on top of the water in the morning. probably a handful will use some stupid glue that wont dissolve. you can...

I have the 20G SS brewtech Electric kettle with the 2v controller. i can easily boil 15 gallons of wort (or water) although at my elevation i boil at 204 degrees. i can maintain a gentle boil at about 75% output on the controller

Ive looked at the steam condenser lid. they use a lot of water. At least on the one batch i did i didn't really have a steam problem in the garage with the door open. i think working up a grant is the next major improvement. Had some problems with the mash sticking on the first batch

my somewhat unwritten rule is don't touch it for 2 weeks. Patience is hard but bottle bombs are far worse. a little different if your keging but for bottling i would wait a full 2 weeks

the boil kettle has a silicone mat under it and the mashtun is insulated. First brew on it a few days ago the table dident even get warm

the two hoses kind of dangling on the left are the water lines to the chiller. they have quick connects to the hoses

shouldent need to sanitize from the mash to the boil, because well you will be boiling and that will kill anything that could have been in there

pretty excited first batch on the newly finished system this weekend 10G of a smokey stout

Just a quick update she is done and will be doing her first batch this weekend

Why would you need to take the spunding valve off?

yes if you have a blowoff in starsan then you are not going to build pressure. so the answer to your question is yes this is normal. if you want to pressure ferment you should get a spunding valve