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If you sparge on the first day, you can pasteurize the wort by heating to to 170F on the stove before going to bed.

Are there any strains that ferment extra cold (maybe 40F)? This would be useful for fermenting lagers in my keezer while keeping the serving temp low.

The gypsum has become calcium and sulfate ions in solution. There are ways that you can precipitate those ions out. Somebody who actually knows needs to answer for you, but this can work. If nobody answers here, start a thread in the Brewing Science section. Better yet, keep searching for a...

This is not a good analogy, and I think everybody can see why. I think only the hop utilization is an issue, but just get a super AA% hop and take care of it easily.

The number you put in is the warmest temperature after fermentation, because the calculator wants to adjust your priming sugar for how much CO2 got into the beer in the carboy.

2. 2 vs 6 row refers to the grains on the stalk of the barley plant. It literally means the grains are two per row on the plant. They are made different by nature, not by us. 3. Anything with a type 2 will be darker. Munich II is a little darker than Munich I. 4. Used for very light color...

From the tap to the keg.

Hmm two packets dry yeast with no starter should be okay for 5 gallons 1.080 wort. One packet is sufficient for 1.040 wort, I'm sure.

I brewed this in 9/2012, bottled after two months. Pitched Goose Island Sophie dregs on brew day, and Wyeast 3711 French Saison. Fermented at 68F ambient. On 2/2013 I brought it to the club meeting and got rave reviews. It came in at 9% abv, dried out to 1.000 but has a thicker mouthfeel...

If the gravity is stable, you can bottle. Congrats on making beer.

I did this recently with good results. I finished sparging at night and boiled next morning, though. I also heated the wort in the kettle to 170F to kill bugs before leaving. There is no sourness this way, and the 170F heat will stop conversion and lock in your fermentability.

Go ahead and tip it at the end: that way you lower the dead space but don't have any channeling problems.

I brewed my first sour on Big Brew: pale malt and white wheat malt (~40%) with Roeselare and assorted dregs to come. The ale yeast is already working strong.

I guess anything that starts with a lot of sugar and ends with little, so a mead would be perfect, that or wine. Maybe get a good yeast so the result tastes okay!

I hear people doing that often. Use a bag, though!

Even when dry hopping in primary, wait for fermentation to settle down first. The reason is so aromatic (smelly) compounds don't get blown out the airlock.

I think I can get two carboys in my 7 cu ft GE freezer, but I would measure at the store just to make sure. Every model is probably a little different.

Exactly. You will get more hop utilization this way, so maybe lower your hop amounts (something that must be calculated).

There seem to be tons of whole kernels in your grain. How does this compare with your previous crushes?

I just bottled my first lager fermented this way--it also was very clear and tasty. I did lager at 34F, though.