Quick Disconnect question

About a year and a half ago I built this for my MLT:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/
You'll notice that all the parts on this list are 3/8" (barb, pipe, nipple). Anyways, for Christmas, I received a SS false bottom, a larger kettle, weldless fitting (1/2" ball valve, nipple, etc), a march pump (1/2" ports), and a plat chiller (1/2" wort ports). Now, my question is this, am I going to have to swap out my MLT's set up for a 1/2" ball valve, nipples etc, so I can connect my false bottom? Also, I would like to get some quick disconnects, but probably can't with a 3/8" ball valve correct?
I was thinking of these disconnects:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=51

Really hoping I don't have to buy a whole new ball valve assembly, etc.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my whole rig. I knew I was getting camlocks for x-mas ( I ordered them...gotta love the SWMBO) and was wondering the same thing about my cooler MLT. Decided to build a MLT out of a keg and go 1/2" all the way. I'm sure you can use reducing bushings to go from 3/8" to 1/2" but I wasn't sure how that would effect the flow rates.

I would get a new 1/2 inch valve. I was just looking at 3/8 parts at Lowes this weekend and the 3/8 stuff is way more expensive than 1/2. 1/2 T, $.80; 3/8 T, $2.50. Brass
Fittings were even worse.

Buying a new co cooler conversion kit may be cheaper than converting the lines to and from 3/8.

Do yourself the favor and go 1/2 inch...I started with 3/8s and as my brewing knowlege and capacity grew, I got a bit restricted with 3/8.

Nearly everything seems to be 1/2 anyways...

Thanks for the responses guys! I went ahead and pulled the trigger and ordered a new 1/2" bulkhead and SS ball valve. So not only is this increasing flow, but now everything is SS that contacts the wort (fittings wise).