Recent content by WoweeZowee

I suppose the range is stated as 60-72F, but I haven't had very good attenuation below 67F. Should I kick it down further than 68F into the 64-66F range since it was probably imparting more flavors at the high temp? Pending my first sample during transfer from the primary to secondary, I may...

Last saturday I brewed an IPA with O.G. of 1066 and pitched a wyeast 1056 1.5L starter at 70F. From saturday afternoon to Sunday afternoon vigorous fermentation brought the temp up to ~73F according to my aquarium thermometer strip. At this point I had some concern about the rising temp...

Hmmm, I also see in the manual that there is a 20 minute safety shut off delay. It would be much more useful to find some technical drawings on this model - or just this type of tankless water heater.

The manufacturers specs say that it needs 1.3 gal/per minute to activate, so I don't know if a ball valve alone is enough to regulate flow. Its highest rated water temp is 150*F. It doesn't seem like too far of a stretch to ask for 165*F. I suppose the delivery rate issue could be fixed by...

I was just browsing around the internet for LP gas tankless water heaters, and I stumbled upon a fairly cheap model. Does anyone have experience with this kind of water heater? Could it be easily modified for lower flow-rate and higher temp? I would really like to have on-demand sparge water...

Before mash-in I heat my strike water in the sanke MLT. This heats up in the MLT steel and wool insulation and is an absolutely required step to maintain stable mash temps. After mash-in, it takes about 10 min for the grain temp to stabilize. I stir the mash well two or three times during...

You don't necessarily need a pump and a heater. A SS kettle with false bottom can easily be direct fired to maintain mash temperatures. I find that I only have to fire my Sanke MLT, which is wrapped with a surplus wool blanket, once at most during a 60 min conversion. Go with a SS kettle and...

Just picked up the steel today. The supplier did not have the originally specified material, so I went with 14 gauge 3/4" x 1 1/2" tubing. A little on the heavy side, but the stand was already overbuilt anyway...

I looked into this some more and you are correct about tank size effecting BTU/hr. Larger tank = more BTU per hour. So I assume this means the regulator I am looking at is capable of delivering more BTU/hr than my 20 lb (I have a 30lb tank too, but it is less convenient to fill) propane tank...

I am thinking about getting couplers welded to my keg kettles, rather than having weldless fittings all over my new brewing stand, but I am unsure of who or what I am looking for in a welder. I live in the Minneapolis metro area if anyone knows a good/reasonably priced tig welder in this area.

Good call on the bargainfittings.com! Ball valves are ~$5 cheaper than I found and Thermometers are ~$10 less. Wildwest - do you have another burner suggestion? The cast burners are cheap (loud, but I have survived on a single burner of the same kind for years) and I hope to some day upgrade...

Also, does anyone know where to find back connecting 1/2" NPT dial thermometers for a good price? B3 has some fairly nice ones for ~$35, but the are sold out. Mcmaster sells dial thermometers for insanely high prices, and I find the units available through sabco difficult to read.

Hello everyone. I have decided to invest in a brewing stand to make my brew day easier and more efficient. This thread will hopefully allow others to help me to identify any weaknesses in my plan. Thank you in advance to those who take the time! First, I haven't yet found a method to scan...

Sweet. That's what I figured.

The thread title says it all. Can I add coffee after carbonation? Here's the situation. I want to add a pint of cold press coffee to a porter I made recently. I have two cornie kegs full of the same porter recipe. One of them is already carbonated and has a FG of 1015. The other has...