Recent content by WhenInMinnesota

I have the following hops that I'm going to use to make an IPA: 1 oz US Magnum (60 min bittering) 1 oz Nelson Sauvin (dry hop) 2 oz Australian Galaxy (1 oz for dry hop) 2 oz Australian Stella (1 oz for dry hop) I'm trying to decide when I want to add the remaining oz of Galaxy and...

If you think you'll eventually want to do higher gravity beers you'll want a cooler that's bigger than the 5 gallon coolers. If you're worried about heat loss on your smaller beers you might want to look into a 48-50 qt cooler. That could be a good option to split the difference between the 70...

If you make this again you might consider dialing down the amber/crystal malt if you want your FG to be at 1.015 or lower. I think you'll want to keep the crystal malts to under 10% of the total grain bill. Not sure it's going to get quite that low with the current recipe but it's certainly...

Start off with asking your LHBS to run your grains through twice. If that doesn't fix the problem then you'll probably have to provide your whole brewing process for people to analyze and look for solutions.

+1 for getting the fermentation temps into the 80s if possible. Saison yeasts do great work at 80+. There's a small brewery in SW Minnesota that pitches the yeast for their saison in the 90s just to get it started.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/allgrain/AG-DeadRingerIPA.pdf Can't get much simpler than this, and it's great.

3. Not sure if this would cause a similar situation as wheat, but you could always throw a little rye in there. I've enjoyed the saisons I've tried that have some rye in malt bill. I guess it comes down to your opinion of rye in beer.

Instead of the Chinook addition at 30 min, you could bumb that to a First Wort Hop. That would get you some nice hop aroma and flavor. The general consensus (that I've seen at least) is that any addition after 60 and before 20 is kind of a waste of hops.

Has anyone ever used a packet of dry yeast and a vial of liquid yeast in the same beer to get an appropriate number of yeast cells instead of making a starter?

If you like Pale Ales hops can cover up a multitude of sins. But if you're not a hop guy then go with the stout. Take your time and make sure you have a good 6-8 hours blocked off as your brew day will probably take longer than you anticipate. Otherwise, have fun, stay calm, and enjoy the process.

Warrior could be a nice bittering hop as well, and a +1 to taking a late hop addition and using it as a first wort hop.

You might also consider dropping the mash temp, for an IPA I try and mash around 149, I like to have a drier IPA once it finishes.

Has anyone brewed the 90 min clone from BYO and then compared it side by side with an actual 90 min? If so, any changes you would make?

This calculator is a great tool to determine what your strike temp needs to be: http://rackers.org/calcs.shtml/ As for the percentage of base malt in an IPA, every brewer is going to have a different percentage, but I'm guessing the majority of recipes will have the base malt be 80-90% of...

Are you kegging or bottling? if you're kegging you could dry hop in the keg, just throw them in a sanitized muslin bag along with some sanitized stainless steel washers to keep it at the bottom of the keg. You could also consider turning the 20 minute addition into a First Wort Hop. Seems to be...