Recent content by vballdrummer

I've looked into this too, Depending on how hot you want the water, it gets pretty expensive for the unit. Home-use units are temp limited to about 140 degrees to prevent scalding (at least her in USA). So to get to near boiling you'd need to purchase a commercial unit like they use in some...

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The software is "functional" to brew, but not at all complete - I've not been able to do anything on this in a couple of months due to being so busy. But I do brew on it. It was my Winter project, and may not get the needed attention till next Winter.

eBay, it's not cheap, but a little goes a long way ... I still have lotz on my roll. Oh and the liquid flux can also be had at your local welding supply -- they will probably not carry the #8 though

+1 Harris Stay-Brite solder and Harris Stay-Clean liquid flux Make sure it is #8 solder -- this is a bearing-type solder with a higher silver content giving it the holding power you need for torque. The higher silver content also helps with the elasticity and the ability to flow and "stick" in...

Fermented out in six days :rockin: 6/5 @1.071 6/11 @0.0995 Here's a vid of the fermentation activity on day two: It's time to finish up, back-sweeten, then keg and carb!

My LabJack based system is in use; it's not polished, it's not complete, but it does brew beer. I used LabView instead of DAQfactory because it's free for me to use https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/new-econtrolbox-based-ohio-eds-239558/

fair enough, but when someone only posts in the classifieds it makes one wonder -- 15 posts, 13 of them to sell something with no contributions to any other forums. If Jay is selling off his stuff - no problem. I'm just askin

jxm2119 - Are you a registered vendor? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/absolutely-no-commercial-retailer-vendor-reselling-231581/

@jazong - my only concern was the longer the tube (moment arm) the more torque applied to the weld. When they arrived I (re)assured myself that the weld is solid enough to withstand weight and motion of the valve. I've really not given it another thought since. Obviously I'm electric - so...

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Just points for any unsuspecting members that grab up a schematic for a blind build. Some of the questions in the Electric Brewing thread are causes for concern. For noobs, the element is HOT (electrically speaking) even thought the PWM circuit is turned all the way down (off) Let's go brew!

Be careful here. I know some might argue the HBT board goes a bit overboard when it comes to safety, but is that really possible when we're using water, metal tanks and 30-50 amps at 115 to 230 V? Specifically, the following concerns on the discussed schematic. There is no ground shown...