Recent content by UnDeadly

I would say do so at your own risk. If you are going to get an explosion, it would probably happen within the first week or two, when the yeast is actually active and producing CO2. There's a thread around here somewhere (I'll find it if someone really wants it) that shows pressure inside...

I'm a little late to the party here, but on carbing with swing-tops... I have used a variety of swing tops with good, but not perfect, results. The long, thin German Altbier bottles, the more standard pint bottles, and 32oz swing top growlers. I have had great results with the two smaller...

I have seen several threads on using actual blueberries, but limited results for blueberry syrup. I want to brew a blueberry/lavender stout, and put it on the back burner when I saw the prices of blueberries out of season (was planning on using 6-10 lbs for a 5 gallon). I then came into 36...

I also am planning on using blueberries, along with lavender, in probably my next stout recipe. In the little bit of research I have done, it does seem like you need to use a LOT of actual blueberries to get what you are looking for, plus blueberries have a good amount of tartness to them so...

I like where your head is at, but the constant friction of the stir bar could make for some nasty scratches on the bottom of the bucket, which in turn gives bugs a nice little cave to hide in. I know both surfaces are smooth, but it really doesn't seem to take much to scratch a bucket...

Yup, looks like egg drop soup to me. Not a dumb question...how the hell are you supposed to know what it is if you have never seen it?

I use a CPVC manifold, and it works like a champ. I can grind a pretty fine grist if I want to, and no problems. That said, the work that went into cutting all those slits manually was insane. I would recommend either drilling a bunch of really small holes, or getting a Dremel tool.

Using a higher than normal mash temperature should help produce more unfermentables, which in turn should help out with the mouthfeel. When I was doing partial mashes I usually actually did two mashes, one with 3# of base malt @ 160F, removed the bag and refilled with 2-3# of specialty grain...

I live in a 2nd story condo, so grain cleaning is not the funnest activity... I usually put empty double trash bags in the trash can, and use a bowl to scoop out the grain until I can remove the manifold. I get as much as I can, then use a spatula for the remainder. Tie up the trash bags...

Probably just hot break, and it gets a dark and slimey from your roasted malts. It sort of reminds me of when you use actual milk in hot chocolate, and when it is really hot at first and you blow on it, you get a weird film on the top. As to whether or not to remove it...I personally don't...

I just made a strong ale that used half 2-row and half MO, turned out great. I think it is one more thing you can change up to add a few little different notes to the malt profile. There were a whole buncha' other goodies in there, and the ale tastes like really good coffee cake :D

I am just as much a newbie to all-grain, but this puzzles the hell out of me. The enzymes that operate at the lower temperatures (your protein-breakers, the proteases) would be denatured during your initial ramp-up, rendering them useless (or at least, less useful). I think your...

I regularly recycle my yeast in just that way, with no problems. I just use Ball jars and usually fill one up after the primary, then chuck it in the fridge. For the next batch that has similar characteristics, I just let it warm to room temperature before pitching, and can't say I have had...

My guess is you should probably be OK. In my early brewing days, before I realized how important temperature was, I would regularly hover around 75 and would not be surprised if it touched your temperature for longer periods of time. Some of the beers turned out not so great, but others were...

Thanks all. Successful brew day with 73% efficiency with a nice, slow fly sparge. Targeted ABV will be 9% if my yeast can hold out.