Recent content by tommyk

I should have actually tested, but I have been thinking the same thing. The only thing I thought possibly could have made the FG so high was all the cereal (flaked wheat, rye, etc) could bump it up. Thanks for the info, that really changes what people should shoot for!

I don't think I have a terrible meter... It is the Oakton ph1 ecotest located at the link below. I had already gone through getting the ph meter setup a few weeks ago, this was just the first time using it to check my mash. I will run through the calibration / stability check, but this is...

I calibrated it just before I did the check, and it reads the 4.0 and 7.0 buffer solutions spot on. I left the meter in for minutes at a time, but it stabilizes in a minute or two usually. I also tested the OG sample at room temp and it read 4.8 as well. Not sure if the ph changes during...

So I recently purchased a ph meter and have been trying to dial in my mash ph. Yesterday was the first time I used it and after 45 minutes in the mash my ph read in at 4.8 at ~70F (meter was calibrated using 4 and 7). I used deionized water from whole foods in columbus ohio. I used the...

So I did something very similar to OP. I made a 1.4L starter, let it ferment for a couple days on a stir plate and then put it in the fridge. The fermentation had almost no krausen, and I never got any peachy notes or really much smell of fermentation in general. I have had WLP001 have so...

Just curious, has anyone tried just using a chest freezer to hold the water (maybe in a bag or something) instead of an AC to cool the liquid?

It has a high FG because of all the 'cereal' grains used as well, right?

What was your solution to fix the temperature difference?

I emailed the brewery last year, but never tried to make it. I was very confused with the high FG they acheived, but that has to be from the 'cereal grains' (rye, wheat, and oats) and a high mash. Here is what they said. <fromBrewery> I don&#8217;t have the ratio of hops to grain but...

Care to share that recipe with me?

Yes, but if you flip the switch to turn the element on, it will be getting hit with 110v until the PID turns the SSR on to get the second hot wire on (which would then be 220v). So it seems like even if PID is saying to "not run the element", the element will still be running at half...

The way this is wired makes me think that if you flip on switch 1, even if the PID is off, the burner would have one hot wire turned on. Is that correct? If so, is that intended?

This is something I have been wanted to know. I think people always say its pointless because you can just buy more packets, but that's not really the answer to the question. Of course you can buy more, but the yeast from a starter is just so ready to go right off the bat (plus there is more).

I know this is old, but I would love to understand why a GFCI is needed for the kettles. I understand what a GFCI does, but not sure how the neutral would EVER get tripped since its not even hooked up to the heating element. I see how the ground would trip the circuit breaker if your pot /...

i want one!