Recent content by StoneHands

Indeed, that sounds good. I've messed around with 3 lager yeasts now 830, 833, and 838 (same as the 2308). All decent, but I prefer the 833. Probably stick with it for all my lagers. 830 was good, just slower. 838 wasn't as malty. Keep us posted on the beer, and keep the ferment temps low. I...

How are you measuring FG? Refractometer by chance? If so, remember to correct the FG reading based on your OG.

In addition to what cadillac said, I would say DON'T write anything by hand. You only need your bottle labels - rubber banded to your bottles. The bottle labels will have been printed by your printer. Your bottles need to be non-descript, as well as the labels. Recipes are only needed if you...

I don't have the eisbock experience you're looking for, but I have bottle conditioned a few doppelbocks. 1. For a fully attenuated eisbock (and it needed to be fully attenuated before eising), there is no residual sugar to allow the carbonation to happen, so I'm a little surprised by those...

Maybe... I'd wait until Tuesday/Wednesday (the 11th or 12th) to ship and hope for the best. I would assume that your bottles will get refrigerated once they arrive. I would bottle like you plan, ship out, and then put a bottle or two in the fridge once you think they've arrived in NYC. Check...

This wasn't what was asked, but I bought a couple of these to have on hand. They work well and don't anticipate having to rebuild that often.

My vote is before and after. I just about always save at least a liter of wort after I've boiled and chilled - essentially the dregs with all of my break material, etc, the last bit that I don't want to dump in the fermenter. I filter it through some paper towels into a freezer bag (after...

One thing to add... I was a dyed in the wool batch sparger, saw no reason EVER to change on the homebrew level, until I did my first decoction. mjohnson's post above reminded me when he mentioned batch sparging. The amount of protein that you get in your mash tun, especially with pilsner malt...

I would mash in at 100F like they say, but I don't think it's necessary to hold it for 30 minutes. You want the mash to be fully wet/hydrated, and give it time to for the enzymes to get in solution. 30 minutes is fine, but probably 15 minutes at most is necessary. Pull your first decoction and...

In your original yeast, the nutrient pack is just that - nutrient, it contains no yeast. The yeast was the rest of the liquid. If I understand correctly, the nutrient pack is there to show viability. If the pack swells after breaking the nutrient pack, the yeast is viable. It does nothing to...

Sorry, it's the lengthy thread here. The first post in the thread is where the info is.

I want to stress again, that your water isn't very good for brewing. Your grain bill doesn't really have any dark malts either to help acidifiy the mash. I don't think you'll get to the proper pH if you use your water and that grain bill. The beer won't be as good as it could be, my guess it'll...

Hope this helps!

Pretty much what Iowa said. Usually "light munich" is the 10L stuff. Weyermann makes a 6L (Munich I) and a 9L (Munich II), I would still consider the 9L the "light Munich" for your recipe. The other Weyermann Cara Munich grains you list are caramel malts, you don't want to use those for the...

Props to the OP on this thread. With the results shown, quite frankly I wouldn't use Kolsch malt in a kolsch with what I see. Too dark.