or perhaps it would be possible to boil with low pressure steam through the jacket like on a steam kettle.
or you could circulate heated mineral oil to avoid any pressure, and use the same oil to chill during fermentation
http://www.multitherm.com/multitherm-pg-1.html
On a non jacketed fermentor something like this might be an solution to not having a heating element submerged during fermentation.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1740mm-X-250mm-2000-Watt-220V-Silicone-Drum-Heater-WVO-Biodiesel-Tank-Barrel-55G-/131161594612?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e89d71af4
I don't own a Braumeister, i'm just thinking about at the 20l.
That was the idea: A full volume no sparge mash.
But my understanding was that the malt pipe would be flooded if all the water was added at the beginning, meaning that the grain would spil outside malt pipe, before the mesh...
Has anybody tried to start the mash with e.g. 25l and then directly after placing the mesh screen, added the sparge water? This would flood the malt pipe during the mash but eliminate the sparge step to simplify the process. Ignoring that it might hurt the efficiency.
Here is a link trough google translate to the seller in Germany
insulated vessel
I've thought of buying them too, but I need to find a welder
Alternately there's a version with a tap fitted
That could be used with this so I don't need to cut holes
2000W Heating element
But I am still in...
Anyone thought of boiling directly in the conical with heatsticks?
The welds wouldnt be a concern because they will be sanitized by the boil. This would also eliminate the need for a boil kettle / make it easier to justify the purchase of a conical.
If you incorporated a stainless IC in...